How to Make a Reclaimed Wood Stool
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- 1- 1×10 board or scraps
- 1- 1×6 board or scraps
- 1 1×2 board or scraps
- Miter saw
- Kreg Pocket hole jig**
- Nail gun and nails
- 3/4” pocket hole screws
- Wood glue
- Finishing supplies as desired
- 2- 1×6's (3/4” x 5 1/2”) @ 17” (Top/seat boards)
- 2- 1×10's (3/4” x 9 1/4”) @ 13 1/2” long point to short point. Cut at a 10 degree bevel, ends parallel. (Legs)
- 2- 1×2's (3/4” x 1 1/2”) @ 9 1/4″ long point to long point. Cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel. (top apron pieces)
- 1- 1×2 @ 11 3/4” long point to long point. Cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel (middle support piece)
Step 1: Select and cut boards
I started with these pieces of reclaimed wood, the two on the left I picked out to be the top/seat boards, and the three on the right are for the legs.
To make the legs wider, like my inspiration piece, I needed to rip one of the three leg boards in half for an extension to be added to the two leg boards. I grabbed my trusty tool combo, my Ryobi Circular saw and my Kreg Rip Cut to do the job. If you are using 1×10 boards you don't need to do this step the wood is the perfect thickness for the legs.
In the top left photo you can see how I have clamped my wood, this will enable me to use my rip cut around the clamp (see top right photo). I set my rip cut so that the board will be cut right in half, and the 2×4 support board is over enough so that my blade will not hit it while I rip the board.
I set my miter saw to a 10 degree bevel (this is where the saw blade is tilted at an angle). I proceeded to cut the boards at a 10 degree bevel 13 1/2” long point to short point ends parallel.
To test my cut I grabbed a top board and the two ripped boards to try out my legs (right)…looking good!
When I did the dry fit, I realized I didn't like how wide the apron pieces were (which is why I said to use 1×2 boards) I wanted them much smaller. Without my table saw set up I knew it would be dangerous to rip a narrow piece like this on a miter saw, and impossible with my rip cut, so I busted out my jig saw!
I used a scrap piece of 1×2 as my thickness guide, and marked it on my apron (top left). Then I clamped my piece on one end and cut as far as I could with my jig saw. I unclamped it and flipped it around and cut the rest of the line. I followed the same process with both apron pieces. Done, and so easy! And safe. 😉
Step 2: Create pocket holes
Then I glued and screwed the boards together with my pocket hole screws. I always make sure to clamp my boards in this process so my boards don't shift while drilling in the screws. The top boards are on the right and the two legs on the left.
Step 3: Assembly
To build the stool, I started by adding the two apron pieces to the top of one leg, making sure they were flush with the top (top photos). Then I glued and clamped the other leg to the apron pieces and added my screws. I did need to use a shorter drill bit for this, because the space was tight.
I measured and marked where I wanted my support board on my legs and attached it with my pocket hole screws.
On the bottom side of the stool seat I measured and marked where the top of the legs needed to be placed. I love using a combination square for quick accurate marking.