If the existing finish (whether varnish, shellac, poly or paint) is really "heavy" I first coat it with Citristrip.

(If the piece doesn't have a real heavy existing finish or multiple layers of paint, you may not even want to use Citristrip...use your judgment! Skip to Step 2 and use just the acetone and lacquer thinner mixture.)

To apply the Citristrip, I use a cheap "chip" brush to apply it per the directions. If you are working in a hot location or feel like the project will need some time, you can cover the citristrip with plastic wrap, to help keep it from drying out.

After letting that sit a bit, I scrape all the flat parts with a plastic scraper. ALWAYS scrape with the grain of the wood.

(For how to "scrape" all the turned legs and carvings...see step 2 below)

Sometimes the finish melts right off, other times it is pretty stubborn...just coat it again with the stripper, let it sit a bit, and then scrape it again! It may take 2-3 applications to get all the "heavy" finish off. Using plastic warp can extend the time it is actively working.

After removing the really heavy old finish or the majority of the paint, mix 1/2 acetone and 1/2 lacquer thinner in a glass or metal bowl.

Using 0000 steel wool, scrub the piece with this mixture. This is the best way to get the old finish and gel stripper off turned legs and etchings.

With the 0000 steel, I can scrub the piece without worrying too much about damaging the wood!

This will remove the stripper you couldn’t scrape off and melt the varnish right off the turns and carvings. Work from the top down and don't be afraid to use this mixture liberally!

One exceptional tool for removing old finish….toothbrushes. Use an old toothbrush to get into all the corners, grooves and crannies...just dip it in the acetone/thinner mixture and scrub away!

They are tough enough to scrub out the crud but won't hurt the wood!

Have you ever seen a piece of furniture that has been refinished and all the corners and joints are dark? That's because they didn't get all the old finish off...use a toothbrush and you won't have that problem!

This process will probably take some time and elbow grease. I usually mix several batches of the acetone/thinner and go through several pieces of steel wool.

I probably went around this table 4-5 times just scrubbing with the mixture! (This is where one of those low shop stools on wheels is a back saver!)

If you don't take this process seriously and remove of ALL the old finish, you are wasting your time because you WILL be disappointed.

While this stripping process may seem labor intensive, it is much easier than sanding the old finish off and you are much less likely to damage the piece.

You should almost always use chemical strippers if your goal is to remove all the old finish or paint and only sand a tad (with the grain...if needed...220 fine grit sandpaper) AFTER you have stripped all the old finish.

Many old pieces (unlike this table) may have veneer. Veneer can be thin and if you sand too vigorously you can do a lot of damage!

You will NEVER get all the old finish out of decorative carvings or turned legs (like this table) with sandpaper...not happening!

Also, palm sanders tend to leave little "swirly" marks. As faint as they may seem, they are going to be glaring if you apply stain.

Save yourself the grief...hand sand with 220 grit paper on the flat surfaces and steel wool on the ornate areas.

SAND WITH THE GRAIN!! Cross grain marks WILL show up if you stain the piece!

Once you strip all the old finish, you are REALLY going to see the "character" (grain) of the wood.

A lot of old finishes were applied with a "multi-layer" process or were sprayed on with the stain mixed in with the finish. This process was used to give the piece a more "uniform" look and hide the "variations" in the wood grain.

If you like a more uniform look than your furniture piece now shows or if you found some surprises as you were working, there is no shame in deciding to paint it!

Also, if you find that your piece now needs some repairs, such as the stripping process dissolve adhesives (glue) that was used on joints, that's not a huge issue.

It is best to strip and stain the piece BEFORE you do any major repairs. Stain will not penetrate glue...so if you get any glue on the wood, it won't absorb a stain and will be visible forever!

So, rule of thumb: If you are going to paint a piece, repair it BEFORE paint...if you are going to stain, repair it AFTER stain

After you have stripped all the old finish, wash the entire piece with clean rags and mineral spirits.

Garage sales and thrift stores are great places to find old towels. Cut them up into washcloth-size pieces.

While washing your piece down with the mineral spirits you may find a few spots that need a little more "scrubbing" to remove any old finish...not a problem...just scrub it again with steel wool or a toothbrush and the acetone/thinner mixture and then wash it down with the mineral spirits.

Let the piece dry and then give it a light sanding, if needed. (Again, ALWAYS with the grain!) Thoroughly clear off any dust from sanding.

As mentioned earlier, there are many options here! If you love the color of the wood when it is wet with mineral spirits, apply a clear coat finish.

If you are going to paint, follow the manufacturer's directions. My favorite finish is stain.

Soft woods may require a preconditioner for stain to apply evenly.

I prefer to NEVER apply poly to stained finishes! I have an old walnut dresser I sealed with poly and I regret it! Someday it will get (re)refinished properly!