Instead of paying $650 for Carrera marble or even over $200 for marble-look laminate, Ronda picked up a countertop from the ReStore and some leftover paint and made her own faux marble countertop for just $30! Here’s how:
DIY Faux Marble Countertops
by Ronda of Batchelor’s Way
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Supplies:
To create your own faux marble countertops, you’ll need:
- the countertop (we got our 36″ deep, rounded edge countertop at the ReStore for $5!)
- white primer for glossy surfaces (I used Valspar Contractor Primers/Bonding Primer)
- gray paint (mine was leftover latex paint, but you could use craft paint, too)
- white iridescent glitter (I bought mine at Michael’s)
- sea sponge
- feather
- small stir sticks
- sponge paint brushes
- cheap bristle paint brush
- SuperGlaze or EnviroTex Lite
- disposable putty knives or a large spreader
- a drop cloth
- painter’s tape
- wood filler (if your countertop has a tiny hole or two like mine did)
- a radial saw and/or jig saw to cut the countertop to size (if it’s not already)
1. Cut Counters to Size
FIRST, if your countertop isn’t already fit to the space you’re putting it in, cut it to size. Ours was an odd L shape, so my husband used a radial hand saw and straight edge to cut the rectangle and then I used a jig saw to cut out the arm at the end. We scribed the “L” shaped area to get a really close fit — very important since nothing was really square.
Note: We have lots of questions asking if you could paint your already-installed countertops in place — yes you can! See more about the finishing process in this glossy painted countertop tutorial, and read more tips for painting countertops here.
2. Repair Any Holes
Next, fill in any holes or blemishes in the countertop so you have a nice surface to start painting on. I just used wood filler (Dry Dex Spackling by DAP) and sanded it smooth.
3. Prime the Countertop
Prime with a white primer for glossy surfaces. I used two coats. Once the primer is dry, lightly sand the whole surface.
4. Paint the Faux Marble Look
Mix your paint. I just used leftover paint to mix up three different colors of gray: a very dark gray, a medium gray, and a light gray. Now you can start painting! I suggest painting a couple of sample boards to get comfortable with the technique and learn what look you like.
Start painting by dipping the sea sponge into the lightest gray paint and dabbing it on to create the light/dark marble variations.
Add the marble veins by dipping the tip of the feather into the darker gray paints and dragging and wiggling it across the countertop. Occasionally flip and push the feather (rather than pulling it) to create natural looking veins. Then lightly dry brush the vein with your cheap bristled brush to soften it.
Sponge over any of the veins with the lighter colors to soften the vein or create a feeling of depth.
5. Step Back and Check Out Your Work
Stand back often to look at the countertop and see how it looks from a distance. Be sure to place it under the lighting that it will be under — when I put it in place, I decided that mine was too dark, so I used white paint and sponged over the whole thing. I even sponged out nearly the whole middle section with white paint since I felt that there were too many similar veining patterns. Sponging over areas actually works to your advantage, as it makes the veins look deeper and more natural. (That’s called a happy accident.)
6. Glitter Time
To give your countertops a truly remarkable faux marble finish, you need glitter! Not large pieces of glitter like I was originally picturing when I read about putting glitter on faux finish countertops (duh moment!) — use a very fine glitter, the kind that looks like sand or dust. I used the white iridescent glitter from a Creatology brand glitter pack from Michael’s.
You should dust the countertop with glitter while the paint is still wet, but I just sponged white paint wherever I wanted the glitter and then sprinkled it with fine iridescent white glitter. It really does look like natural mineral deposits on your faux marble!
7. Sealing the Countertop
Most of the faux granite/stone countertop tutorials I read used a product called EnviroTex Lite to seal their countertops. You can buy it at Hobby Lobby or online. I didn’t want to drive to the other end of the valley to Hobby Lobby or pay shipping to order online, so I looked around a bit and found that I could get a similar product at Home Depot, which was a much shorter drive. It’s called Super Glaze, and it is a two-part epoxy that pours on and is the equivalent of using 60 coats of varnish. I bought two boxes ($25 each) based on the information on the package, but I only ended up using one (and had a lot left over) to cover my counter of approximately 6 square feet.
8. Prep the Edges and Area
First, tape off the raw edges of your countertop. You don’t want any epoxy build-up on them or the countertop might not fit back into place.
Place a good drop cloth beneath the project to catch all the runoff — the resin will not come off anything it comes in contact with. Level the counter; the Super Glaze self-levels and you’ll want it to spread out evenly.
9. Mix the Epoxy
Next comes the scary part: mixing the epoxy! Read the directions on the box and follow them very closely. I mixed part A and part B in a bucket and stirred for the required time, even having my sister time me so it was exact!
Following the directions, I poured the mixture into another bucket and stirred for the required time again. Then, it’s ready to pour!
10. Pour on the Epoxy
Once you pour some epoxy on the countertops, start spreading it out. Anything you use to spread it will have to be thrown away, so use something disposable. Bigger spreading tools will make it easier! I used plastic putty knives I had on hand, but I wish I had listened to my mother and picked up the $2 giant disposable spreader at the store.
Smooth out the mixture as best you can and let it run right off the edges. It looks like glass. It will level as it sits, and you have to work quickly to get it spread before it begins to set up.
Be sure to check all the edges and so everything is covered. (After mine dried, I found two tiny spots on the front edge that we missed, which I touched up with clear fingernail polish.)
11. Allow It To Cure
After you get all the bubbles out, let it sit for 3 days to dry and cure (according to the package directions) and then you can install it. YAY!!
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If this process still makes you a little nervous, we’ve heard really great things about this gray granite/marble contact paper that sticks directly to counter tops. It’s supposed to be very easy to work with and looks very real. It may be a great solution for countertops that don’t take too much abuse and/or smaller DIY projects like coffee tables, etc.!
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Faux Marble Countertop Update 1/11/16
Yael, one of our readers, followed this tutorial and sent us this message:
Amazing job, Yael! It looks beautiful! Thank you for sharing!
For more details, visit her blog at Jewish Latin Princess.
Other amazing and affordable DIY countertop tutorials:
 glossy painted countertops |  copper countertops |  butcherblock countertops |
 stainless steel countertops |  concrete countertops |  faux granite countertops |
Could I use this technique on a wooden coffee table.
thx
I’d imagine you could! You’d probably just need to prime before to make sure that you have a solid base layer to start the marble painting on.
I love the look but was wondering how it is holding up. Can you use a bleach cleaner on it?
Thanks!
Hi Charlotte! The sealant should be pretty durable, but you can click over to Bachelors Way and ask Ronda for sure about how it’s holding up and what she uses to clean it. There’s a link to her site at the top of the post. Thanks!
Hey Charlotte,
After I did my countertop this way, i found it to stain a bit easily or if something gets wet and sticks to it, it’ll sometimes leave a mark. However, with magic eraser i’ve been able to wipe it clean every single time! So i’m not sure about a bleach cleaner — but the magic eraser sure does work for me. Hope that helps!
Thanks for adding your experience, Corrine!
I just did this in my kitchen and wow it turned out great! Thank you so much for the awesome directions. Only problem I had was the epoxy was a lot thicker in some spots than others. I will sand it down today and add another coat to see how that goes…. Cindy
Yay! We want to see pictures when you are done, Cindy!
Would this work over laminate??
Yes, these countertops were originally laminate.
And it’s food safe?
Food-safe depends on the sealer that you use. I’m not personally familiar with most of them, so you’d have to do a bit of research and read up on which ones are recommended for kitchen use and tested for food safety. This was just in a laundry room, so I don’t think Ronda was worried about food safe 🙂
We just finished up our kitchen remodel using your tutorial, and the counter tops look awesome! I repainted one counter three times though because I didn’t like how it turned out. I thought they were too grey, but when I put the sealer on, they came out just as I wanted them. They’re beautiful. Thanks! 🙂
Thanks for the comment, Lisa! So glad they turned out awesome! We’d love to see some pictures if you’re up for sharing. Drop us a line at hello@remodelaholic.com or use the form here: https://www.remodelaholic.com/share-brag-post/
I love how this counter top turned out thank you so much for the tutorial.I can hardly believe it’s not true marble and I was full sure the tute was going to be way to complicated so I am pleasantly surprised that it is not. Going to try it on my laminate kitchen counter which needs upgrading anyway if I have a fail..
I would like to do a black glitter marble like this. Do you recommend all the same products or have you seen anything for black marble effect? obviously using black primer paint instead of white.
I haven’t seen anything specific for black marble. But it sounds STUNNING! I’d love to see pictures when you’re done!
Did you notice the epoxy yellowing at all? I just painted my countertops to look like marble and really want to put epoxy over it but I’m nervous that it will turn yellow.
I used the EnviroTex Lite (one of the options suggested) and I haven’t seen any yellowing. I’ve had it on my countertop for almost 2 yrs.
Thanks for the feedback, Corrine!
oh wow! I would love to try this. Thanks for sharing all the information.
Could I do this over my existing granite countertops?
I imagine that you could, but you might be better off removing and selling the granite to replace your countertops — I’m not sure how the granite would take paint, and I’m not sure I’d try it 😉
Hi! I am dying to do this to our bathroom countertop!! The “problem” is it is a solid surface similar to Corian where the sink is integrated. How would you handle the super glaze in that case? That is my only hold up from doing this!
I am also wondering about this same issue! I would LOVE any info!
Did you only use the primer for white paint? I have already down two coats of white primer on my wooden vanity top, but I wonder if I should do a coat of white paint (non-primer) as well?
I went to my hardware store and picked upna two part epoxy for my counter. After a few months now. My counter tops are turning yellow from the suns UV rays… Anyone have this problem or know how to fix and prevent?
Hey can I just leave my own laminate countertop in the kitchen and then paint over them?
Absolutely! Many many DIYers have done that. You can read other techniques and tips here: https://www.remodelaholic.com/diy-painted-countertop-reviews/
Do you have to remove your countertop or can you just leave the countertop in place?
I’m just wondering if this would work on a bathroom countertop where the sink is a part of the counter. I would plan on doing the sink without the veining (just white) but will the epoxy work on the sink since it is not a flat surface? I would love any insights you might have!! Thank you!!
Did you ever hear back on your question? My bathroom sink is round and I am wondering if I should leave it white or paint it or epoxy it or what? please help!
Would this method be hard to manage for about 20ft of countertop? I imagine it would be very time consuming. But I wonder if the epoxy would start to set before I could get it all covered.
That’s a great point, Chelsea. I haven’t done this personally, but we polled other DIYers about their experiences and processes, so you might find some help in this post about using the epoxy or using a different sealant. https://www.remodelaholic.com/diy-painted-countertop-reviews/ Good luck!
I would like to try this on my bathroom shower walls. Are there any tips? What kind of clear would I use?
Thanks John
Wow. Brilliant idea. I was wondering, do you need to redo the seal later on or would it be fine?
I would definitely seal the countertops every 6 months or annually. Do you have marble countertops already?
No, barbara, I do not. My wife and I are saving up to redo our kitchen so we’ve just been researching and trying to finalize what our expenses will be. It’s so hard trying to get an average price for marble because everyone hides their prices online so you have to call. Can you tell me what kind of prices I should be expecting when getting marble countertops?
I would redo the seal annually or semi-annually just to be safe. These countertops are not cheap lol
Thanks Joanna, and yea I figured lol I just want to make sure I’m going with the right stone. I don’t want to worry about refinishing it and scratches over time.