Hi, it's Amy from Hertoolbelt back with another DIY build for your home. At my house it never seems like we have enough space to hang all of our stuff. During school we have extra jackets and backpacks. The winter time brings lots more items to hang like snowsuits, coats, hats etc. I spotted this cute Hall Tree at Pottery Barn and decided this was the answer, love all of those coat hooks. I changed up the coat rack design a bit and added a bottom shelf for boots and shoes.
How to Build a DIY Hall Tree Coat Rack
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- 1 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ board (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″)
- 4 – 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″)
- 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
- 12 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actual dimensions 3/4″ x 1 1/2″)
- 4″ wood screws
- 3″ wood screws
- 1 1/4″ brad nails, nails or screws
- wood glue
- 12 coat hooks
- decorative upholstery nails – optional
- Approximate cost of lumber – $32 (not including coat hooks and decorative nails)
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 17 1/2″ (2×6's)
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 71 1/2″ (2×3's)
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 37 1/2″ (2×4's)
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ (2×4's – shelf supports see special cuts)
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ x 17″ (2×4's – diagonal supports see special cuts)
- 23 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 37 1/2″ (1×2's)
- 1 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 21 1/2″ (1×2's)
- Cut 2 diagonal support pieces from 2×4. Cut one end at a 40 deg miter angle, measure over 17″ and make a 50 deg miter cut as shown.
- Cut 4 – 15 1/2″ shelf support pieces from 2×4. On one end measure down 1″ and cut a 45 deg miter from the 1″ mark.
- On 2 of the slats mark about 4″ and 8 1/2″ from both ends. Cut a 1/2″ notch (a jigsaw will work well).
Make all of the cuts according to the cut list and special cuts. It's easiest to sand all of the boards and stain them prior to assembly.
On the 2×3 posts, mark 12″ from the tops for the 2nd shelf support. In the 2×6 feet, drill countersink holes where the 2×3 posts meet up to the 2×6 feet, leave a 1 1/2″ gap between the posts for the diagonal board. Use wood glue and 3″ min wood screws to attach feet to the post ends. Place one of the shelf support boards flush with the post tops and one at 12″. Use wood glue and 4″ wood screws to secure the shelf supports in place. Make sure the shelf supports and feet make a 90 deg angle to the posts. Repeat for second post assembly.
On the posts, measure down 16 1/4″ and 40 1/4″ from the tops. Space the post assemblies about 20 1/2″ apart.
Add the slats to the middle shelf first. Put one slat flush with the shelf support ends, center the slat from side to side. Use 1 1/4″ brad nails, screws or nails to attach slats to the shelf supports. Leave a 1/2″ gap and attach the next slat, repeat for 7 slats. The last slat is one of the notched slats from ‘special cuts'. Repeat the same steps for the top shelf and the bottom shelf.
Place the diagonal supports in between the posts, the 50 deg cut side goes between the posts and the 40 deg on the slats. Drill countersink holes in the bottom of the feet where the diagonals will attach and use 3″-4″ screws to secure the diagonals in place. Attach the diagonal supports with 4″ screws between the posts.
Mark on the coat rail 3 1/8″ and 6 1/4″ thereafter, this will be the center of your coat hooks. Attach the coat hooks according to the manufacturers directions.
I love the curves on these hooks.
I added decorative nails as if the boards were bolted together.
There's plenty of room for visitors or family members to hang their coats and drop their shoes.
The top shelves are handy for purses, bags, hats or bins.
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