Re-using most of the wood I work with is very important to me, wood is a great material to work with – I always find a way to reuse boards or smaller cuts.
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Foldable Craft Table made from Scrap Wood
Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of This Building Plan
I made this foldable craft table from scrap wood only, all I spent on this project was $5.00 for the hinges. Everything else I had already, or received for free.
This project is considered advanced, but I am pretty sure that even a beginner will pull this of by using my FREE Plans (which are included – at the bottom).
Material needed:
Table base
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 29″ table legs
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 9 3/4″ x 3/4″ support boards for front and back
- 6 – 1 1/2″ x 23 1/2″ x 3/4″ support boards for the sides
- 2 – 26 1/2″ x 26 1/2″ x 1/2″ table top plywood boards (substitute with 3/4″ if that’s what you have)
- 1 – 13 1/4″ x 26 1/2″ x 1/2″ Table top center board (substitute with 3/4″ if that’s what you have)
Frame boards
- 2 – 2″ x 29″ x 3/4″
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 26 1/2″ x 3/4″
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 19 7/8″ x 3/4″
Shelving
- 8 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 8″
- 2 – 24 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ x 1/2″
Hardware and Tools
- 4 – 3-4″ door hinges
- 4 – 1″ door hinges
- 4 – 1″ corner hinges or L-shaped hinges
- 1 1/2″ screws
- screwdriver (electric and manual)
- Kreg Jig
- Edging Tape | Household Iron to apply
- Paint, stain or sealer (optional)
- 4 Casters (optional)
- 2 Door stopper (optional)
- Miter saw
- Table saw or circular saw
- Sandpaper and sander
Step 1.
Drill pocket holes into each of the support boards (2 on each side is recommended). Screw them into place with 1 1/2″ screws.
Step 2.
Once all 4 x 9 3/4″ boards are screwed in place, attach the side boards.
Step 3.
To build the side frame, use the frame boards listed above. Drill pocket holes into the center boards only 1 1/2″ x 19 7/8″ x 3/4″. Screw the top center board 1/4″ lower, this space is needed for the hinge overhang – this way you can still open the frame.
Step 4.
Put together the second frame and attach them with hinges to the top and bottom along the outside of the base (see below).
Step 5.
Attach the table top, flip the table top boards onto the topside, so the underside is showing. Place the door hinges at least 4″ away from the edges – with the hinge center pointing to the contacting point of both the boards.
Secure the hinges to the table underside, 1. make sure the screws are not to long (or they will poke through), 2. the boards are flush against each other, 3. use a screwdriver to secure the hinges (the screws are so small that too much power can over rotate and break the screw head).
Once the door hinges are attached to all table top boards, secure the table top trio to the base. Lay the table top onto the base and draw an outline where the support board ends (see image below). Use “L” shaped hinges or corner brace brackets (the hinges I used are from a local hardware store), but you can also use these.
Step 6.
Screw the hinges to the support board, and the table is ready to be stained, painted or sealed.
To make the table accessible, attach leg casters to the bottom of the table base and to the support frame(s) left and right. Use these Slipstick floor protectors or Soft Rubber Swivel Plate Caster and these for the side frame > Kick Down Doorstop.
Shelving:
Making the shelving is easier than it looks, all you need to do is cut some 3/4″ thick strips of wood, pre-drill one home on each end and secure them inside of the support board – 1/2″ below the top of board (see image below).
Screw one strip on each side, and you can lay the board on top.
This method will give you the great “no edge” look – perfect for sliding things in and out!
I used Birch wood edging tape to hide all the ugly edges from the table top (if you can’t find the 1/2″ tape, you can cut the tape to fit your needs).
Hope you made it through the entire post (sorry this was such a long post), if you did THANK YOU for reading through the tutorial. I would be very grateful if you would also share this tutorial on Pinterest or Facebook.
Like to see more:
HOW TO BUILD A FARMHOUSE TABLE UNDER $250
WEATHERED WOOD AMPERSAND SIGN | HOW TO TUFT/BUTTON YOUR IKEA KARLSTAD CUSHIONS
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More ways to build your own space-saving table and storage:
add a storage platform and wheels to a dining table for a rolling workspace
turn an old cabinet into a slim console table with storage cubbies
build a folding portable table — a great workstation!
This turned out amazingly Bettina! What a great thing to have around the house…I have very little work top space. 🙂
Thank you Ursula, so glad I got to use up all my scarp wood and save major $$$.
Thank you for sharing the plans & great pictures. Any thoughts about how to add wheels to this foldable table? I need something that not only folds but can be moved easily by one person who has chronic pain problems. Thanks again, Laura
I actually just added wheals to mine, and it is so much easier to move the table now — especially after adding a sewing machine, bins and other crafts in it.
Craft Table on rolls
Great way to use a foldable table. The table’s design is almost exactly the same as Ikea’s Norden gateleg table though!
Awesome – thank you! I’m using it to utilize unused space between my washer and dryer.
Does it wobble when using sewing machin?
Yes, I would like to know this as well.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!!! It is exactly what I need 🙂
Hi! I love this table and want to make it this weekend. Are there printable plans? Thank you!
We just updated the post with the printable plans for you 🙂 Happy building!
Thank you for making available the plan for this wonderful idea – just what I was looking for. Would you have a version with metric measurements, and with wheels?
Hi Wan-Hea,
We don’t have a version like you suggest but you could definitely make one! That’s the great thing about DIY 🙂
Hi,
thank you so much for the DIY, I was searching for something like this for so long!
I want to use it as a dinnertable with storage for cutlery and plates and am trying to convert it to my needs.
The only thing I do not understand is, why is the table top center board 13.25″? I thought it would have been 12.75 bc of 9.75 of the front board and each 1.5 of the table legs.
Am I missing something? I have been thinking about this for a few hours and would be very glad to know the answer 🙂
Best wishes from Germany!
For those that have built it, do you have a cost estimate for the parts?
This can be done out of 1 4x8ft plywood sheet. Just depends on the wood type.
how much would it roughly cost if you had to buy all the material
Hi I love the idea and it’s exactly what I want but if you have the measurements in centimeters It will be much easier for me cause the wood company where they sell woods they do cuts also and it will be easier for me to do the rest thank you
Just finished this project and it was pretty simple. It can be made from scrap, but I recommend a sturdier wood for the legs at least, just for more durability. I would also recommend a thicker plywood for the table top. 1/2 inch is okay, but try to locate a furniture grade that is at least 3/4 of an inch, this will provide more desired strength especially if you have a heavy sewing machine. Please note that if you want wheels on yours you will have to add a few inches to the outside edge of the sideframe in order for it to reach the ground and be stable. So if you think you want wheels make the decision before you cut the wood, otherwise you can’t turn back. The table top, when extended is surprisingly stable and can hold a minimum of 25 pounds on the far edge of the extended table. I would also like to say that the corner brackets are extremely difficult to find and a great alternative are these Everbilt corner brackets from home depot. Very cheap and give you the correct contact points for the table assembly. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Heavy-Duty-Corner-Brace-2-Pack-15442/202034088
Overall, it was a straight forward project and is very high quality when finished.