Easy to Build Cantilevered Table; The Design Confidential

Hi everyone, glad to be visiting with you all!  I will be sharing a very simple Build It! Plan with you that is not only easy to build, but is super d duper cheap as well, and can be built without any special tools, if you don’t prefer to buy any, or don’t happen to have them already.


If you would like to give this a try, you are welcome to visit my site for assistance or any questions you may have.  I am happy to help, just click on the banner above to head on over.

Build it plans

This easy to build cantilevered table can be used for a variety of things, but my main purpose for creating this plan is to give you a table that can tuck under the edge of your sofa or a chair and sit over the armrest for use with a laptop, drinks, remotes, your book…whatever you might fancy.  Would be fabulous outside next to a chaise lounge or reclining chair, it would even be a fabulous plant stand.Did I mention this is cheap to build?  Yep super cheap, under $20 for the wood and you can use a box of construction screws meant for wood on wood building, which are typically cheaper and much more durable.  You won’t tear out the top of your screws as frequently…

You will purchase one of the following 2 Screws, you don’t need both!

**1 5/8″ Pocket Screws – If you would like to use a Kreg Jig for creating pocket holes (as explained below) to assemble this table.
**2 1/2″ Screws – If you don’t have a Kreg Jig.  You will countersink your screws for the most professional appearance.  Galvanized or Stainless are best for outdoor use.

Wood Filler 


Finishing Supplies

Here you have a choice again…This decision has no bearing on strength or stability, this is simply a matter of choice based on availability and price.You will choose option 2 if 1×2’s are less expensive (my experience is that they generally aren’t) or if the selection of boards available in 1×2’s is better…
Option 1:

4 – 2×2 @ 8′

Option 2:

2 – 2×2 @ 8′

2 – 1×2 @ 8′

Tape Measure
Sanderor sandpaper
Saw– unless your hardware store will make cuts for you
** Kreg Jigthis is optional since you are perfectly able just screw your boards together as you would any other piece, however…this piece in particular will look much much cleaner and a bit stronger if you use a Pocket Hole System.  You can purchase a Kreg R3 Jr.for around $40.  A great buy if you plan on building anything in the future.

Cut list

Option 1 Cut list:
4 – 2×2 @ 20″ (Base and Top Frame)
2 – 2×2 @ 24 1/2″ (Legs)

11 – 2×2 @ 17″ (Base, Top Frame and Table Slats)

Option 2 Cut list:
4 – 2×2 @ 20″ (Base and Top Frame)
2 – 2×2 @ 24 1/2″ (Legs)

3 – 2×2 @ 17″ (Base Frame and Top Frame)
8 – 1×2 @ 17″ (Table Slats)

**If you aren’t using a Kreg Jig, always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step.  It will really matter in this project.   Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines.  
**For outdoor use, choose rot resistant and weather tolerable wood such as Cedar, Redwood, and Teak.  You would be well suited to pre-drill, sand, and finish each board before assembling to ensure complete protection and a lasting finish.

1  Build the Base:  if you are using a Kreg Jig, place your pocket holes on the inside of the 17″ piece.  For regular screws fasten from the outside of the 20″ pieces into the 17″ piece on both sides. 
Step 1
2  Fasten the Legs to the top of the Base Frame:  place pocket holes on the inside of legs.
Step 2
3  Fasten the 20″ Top Frame pieces to the top of the Legs, then attach the 17″ Frame pieces to them.  Once you have that structure in place you can attach your Table Slats. Step 3

4  If you are using a Pocket Hole System create your pockets as shown in the diagram below.  If you are using regular screws to assemble, you might also consider attaching the slats by screwing from underneath the 20″ Top Frame pieces at an angle up into the slats to hide them.  This is a bit trickier to do, and you will need to pre-drill with a countersink drill bit to avoid having your screw stick out a bit, but is definitely a possibility.  You would need to use 2×2’s for the slats if you were going to do this last option.  The image below shows this piece with 1×2 slats.

Step 4

5  Fill any Screws Holes, sand and finish as desired, or Touch up as needed if you pre-finished for outdoor use (or ease of finishing).

For finishing tips and tutorials see myFinishing school

Finishing school
I hope you enjoyed this post.  If so, you will love the dozens of other Build It! Plans, furniture finishes, and DIY tutorials…come visit me and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date on the latest projects!  If you are a blogger, please feel free to link any of your tutorial projects to my DIY Collective, it’s an entire library of tutorials from all over the web for anything and everything your heart desires. 
Thanks for spending time with me today!  Hope to see you soon…Rayan – The Design Confidential

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Cassity Kmetzsch started Remodelaholic after graduating from Utah State University with a degree in Interior Design. Remodelaholic is the place to share her love for knocking out walls, and building everything back up again to not only add function but beauty to her home. Together with her husband Justin, they have remodeled 6 homes and are working on a seventh. She is a mother of four amazing girls. Making a house a home is her favorite hobby.

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  1. >Is the table stable? Seemslike without any supports, if something fairly heavy were placed on the surface, it would really sag and even break…do you have any pictures of the table with items on it?

    Cool design though

  2. >definitely stable! the cantilever is a building technique that has been around for ages (think "Falling Water" house by Frank Lloyd Wright). it definitely has support in the base and the legs, it's ability to hold weight is counterbalanced by the base and the weight transference that occurs in the legs and down into the base. the most important part of making sure this is stable is by making sure your cuts are exact and that you are squared up.