Painted Bathroom Sink and Countertop Makeover
Wondering if you can paint your bathroom sink countertop? The answer is YES and we’ll show you how (plus how it’s holding up after a year).
You can also paint your bathroom tile and tub, plus read more about other countertop painting techniques (including how to spray paint countertops!)
Paint is the first go-to for many DIY projects – it’s affordable and accessible for even beginners, and it is the answer in so many situations, such as…
🖌️ No budget for new kitchen cabinets? Paint them instead.
🖌️ Dated furniture? You can paint it (yes, even the upholstery!) or even paint faux stain on worn wood furniture.
🖌️ A concrete patio that’s stained and discolored? Yup, there’s paint for that (and it works on cinder blocks, too.)
🖌️ Outdated ugly countertops? Paint them! We’ve extensively options for painting your kitchen countertops in different ways.
So when we saw Kelli’s painted bathroom sink countertop, we wanted allll the details.
There are a lot of great products out there, as you wander the aisles of the hardware store. But how do you know if they will do what they claim they will do? I’m always glad to find someone who has tried it and can say what worked and what didn’t.
Plus — a painted bathroom sink and countertop, no sealer required? That sounds like a perfect makeover! Come learn from Kelli how she used tub and tile paint to give her 90’s integral cultured marble sinks a completely new, modern look (and then keep reading for more ideas for how to update an integral sink and how to use tile refinishing paint)
This painted bathroom sink countertop is such a great project, and has been popular for years here on the blog! We’ve updated this post to answer your questions about how to paint a bathroom countertop and give clear step-by-step instructions.
Interested in how Kelli’s painted countertop is holding up? Read her report and others’ follow-up reports about their painted countertops here.
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Painted Bathroom Sink and Countertop Makeover
by Kelli from I’m Flying South
Hey there, friends! I am so thrilled to be here with you at Remodelaholic! I’m Kelli from I’m Flying South. I write about all kinds of things over in my little corner of the internet. The blog started as a way to get out all of my feelings surrounding our move from Michigan to Florida and transformed into the chronicles of life as a SAHM to twins +1 and beating Postpartum Depression & Anxiety. Eventually, we moved back up to Michigan, and now that we’re settled into a new house in our beloved Mitten State, I’m sharing all of the work that my husband Brian and I are doing to make our new home feel more like ours.
Luckily, our new home was fairly turn-key aside from needing a few appliances. Built in the 1990s, the house is full of cultured marble and shiny, yellow brass. It was a foreclosure that the bank came in and fixed up a bit with new carpet and fresh peachy-beige paint on every square inch of the walls, making it clean and very livable. While the colors and fixtures are not aesthetically our taste, we have been able to take our time making it our own. If you want to check out my first big victory over the peachy-beige paint, feel free to wander over to my blog.
One of very favorite projects so far is our painted Bathroom Sink & Counter Makeover. It was a fairly quick, easy, inexpensive update that made a HUGE difference in the feel of the rooms. After a little water leak incident in the basement, we decided that the old, swiveling, shiny yellow brass faucets in both our half bath and the boys’ bathroom had to go. And while we had the faucets off of the counters, we might as well paint the bathroom countertop like I’d been planning!
Can you paint a bathroom sink countertop?
Yes, you really can paint a bathroom countertop and sink! I’ll show you step by step, how I painted our half bath countertop with Rustoleum’s Tub & Tile Paint. Before, it was a beige marble-ish one piece sink and countertop. Nothing terrible, but just not our style either. And after painting the walls (Pantone Illusion Blue – Valspar) and the cabinet (Blue Coal – Valspar) and changing out the cabinet hardware, the counter was just screamin’ for a makeover.
And if you’re worried about the durability of a painted sink – read my update here. (Spoiler: no regrets!)
Step by Step: How to Paint a Bathroom Countertop and Sink
I’ll walk you through how to paint a bathroom countertop and sink. My vanity top is just one piece, an integrated sink and countertop, in both bathrooms where we painted the sinks. This paint will work just a sink, too, if you have a drop-in sink, or for any kind of ceramic re-coating on a tub or tile.
If your bathroom vanity has a separate sink and a laminate countertop, I’d suggest using this epoxy paint for just the sink and using one of these DIY countertop painting methods to paint the vanity top separately.
Supplies to Paint a Bathroom Sink Countertop
There are now quite a few different tub and tile refinishing paint kits on the market (and even on Amazon!). I’d heard good things about Rustoleum’s Tub & Tile Paint, so we decided to go that direction.
In addition to the resurfacing kit, you’ll need:
- Rustoleum Tub & Tile kit (just one box was enough for 2 sinks and countertops; I used gloss white and they now have satin finish in both white and light gray “coastal fog”)
- 4-inch paint roller (& tray if desired)
- fine-bristled paint brush
- craft sponge brushes
- Comet (or other similar cleaner)
- sponge
- Lime Away (or other similar hard water remover)
- abrasive sponge
- tack cloth
- 400-600 wet/dry sandpaper
- bucket
- bath caulk
- lots of elbow grease!
And just a word of warning: this epoxy tub and tile paint STINKS. The fumes are very strong and last a day or two. Be sure to take breaks, wear a good respirator, and ventilate the area as well as possible.
Prepare the Countertop and Sink
Step 1: Remove the faucet
Remove the faucet and drain, and use a putty knife or scraper to remove any old caulk from the counter or where the backsplash meets the countertop.
I was installing a new faucet, so the old faucet had to go anyway. Even if you’re keeping the faucet, I’d recommend removing it if possible instead of trying to tape around it the handles and drain.
Step 2: Clean the sink
Scrub the sink and counter with a stain-removing cleanser (like Comet) and a sponge and rinse well. Then scrub with a hard water cleaner like Lime-Away and an abrasive sponge; rinse well. Be sure to remove all soap and residue.
Step 3: Sand
Next up, sanding. Sanding is pretty important, as this is how you’re going to get your surface nice and grabby for the paint.
I’ll be honest, 400 grit sandpaper felt like I was just caressing the surface of the tile. So I went rogue and grabbed some 320 from the garage. The 320 felt like I was actually sanding something rather than giving the tile a nice massage.
Sand, sand, sand till your arm feels like it might fall off. The sanding creates a really fine white powder all over the entire surface, so wipe with a damp cloth a few times, then wipe with a dry one. Use a tack cloth to capture any remaining dust.
Finally, I let the surface air dry overnight to be sure that it was completely dry with no moisture remaining on the surface.
Step 4: Tape
Tape any surfaces that you do not want to get the tile paint onto (walls, vanity, etc) with a painter’s tape. You may want to use some drop cloths to protect the cabinets and floor.
Mix and Apply the Countertop Paint
Now it’s time for some epoxy! Painting the countertop is actually pretty easy. A painted bathroom sink was a bit more tricky, but still not terrible.
Step 5: Mix While Wearing Safety Gear
I’ll admit that sometimes I’m not the best at following directions. Sure I read on the box and from several websites that this stuff was stinky, but I wasn’t prepared for just how stinky it actually is. I now have no nose hairs left. (Kidding. Kind of.)
I had windows open and fans on and the kids were shipped off to Grammy’s house for a sleepover, but I just figured that an N95 mask would do the trick. Um, no. I lasted approximately 3 minutes until I sent my husband to Lowe’s for a respirator! Apparently it takes more than the manufacturer and several testimonials to convince me to save my brain cells.
So, wear a good respirator (and safety glasses and gloves) while mixing the parts and painting. Follow the instructions on the can to mix the tub and tile paint. It’s pretty simple: just mix Part A (applicator) and Part B (base).
Step 6: Paint the Sink and Countertop Edges with a Brush
The Rustoleum box recommends using a 4 inch roller with foam cover and a very fine bristled brush for the edges. First, I used the fine bristled brush to cut in around the edges of the counter. I actually did the entire first coat with a brush instead of a roller. I found it much easier to get a nice thin coat on with a brush.
*Beware of Bubbles!
The above photos are actually of the first coat in the boys’ bathroom, because it’s the one I started … and it’s just … better. My husband and I each started one sink and someone got kicked off of his project because **cough**PAINT BUBBLES**cough**. The man just doesn’t believe in the whole tried-and-true “multiple, thin coats” method. But he is insanely handy and awesome to have around, so I’ll keep him.
So while I was brushing on my nice thin first coat, Brian went straight for the roller. No brush, just a nice, thick coat with a roller. You know what happens when coats of paint are too thick? Bubbles, my friends. Bubbles.
Don’t roll on a thick coat of this epoxy paint! By the time I saw it, the bubbles were half dry. So, how to fix bubbles in tile paint? I let it dry, sanded the bubbles down, and went back for the brush! Brush for the edges, roller for the rest. Lather, rinse, repeat.
Step 7: Roll the Paint on Large Flat Areas
As previously discussed – roll the paint in THIN coats on the larger areas. The foam roller is really great but can also apply the paint much thicker than is good (see above).
Tips for Painting Tricky Areas
Certain areas of the counter and sink were a bit more challenging to achieve a smooth finish – namely the corner behind the faucet and the bottom curve of the sink.
For behind the faucet and the tops of the pieces that crawl up the wall, I found that using the foam brush to kind of dab the paint on was pretty effective.
The sink just took a lot of smoothing with the roller. Random little bubbles would form and even the thinnest layer seemed to want to drip a bit. After rolling out the imperfections for awhile, we just called it good and decided to let it cure.
Update: Rustoleum now makes an aerosol spray paint for tub and tile that might help with the drips and bubbles on curved surfaces? Spray paint takes extra time to prep and mask off the rest of the area, so let me know if you try it and like it!
Step 8: Let Dry Between Coats
Like any painting project, the key to a good durable finish is thin coats that fully dry between layers.
Rustoleum recommends waiting 1-2 hours between coats, and applying 2 coats. I coated the vanity top really thinly, so I actually applied 3 coats for the coverage I wanted.
Step 9: Paint The Second Coat (and Third)
The trick with this stuff is not to get a super thick layer on there, but not too thin either. Too thick = bubbles and drips. Too thin = weird texture and marks. I started with a thin layer (treating it like a coat of primer) and worked up from there for a second coat. We let each coat dry for about an hour before starting another coat. The third coat was when I really started to get serious about texture and watching for brush marks.
Step 10: Let the Paint Cure
Rustoleum recommends 24 hours of curing before touching the surface and 72 hours of curing before getting the surface wet. Don’t try to cut this short!
Finishing the Vanity Top Makeover
Step 11: Reinstall the Faucet
After the recommended 3 days of cure time, in went this pretty lady…
Isn’t the new faucet gorgeous??? It’s the English Country Double Handle Centerset Faucet (in Oil-Rubbed Bronze) by Kingston Brass. Words cannot express how much I love her. It’s probably unhealthy to be this in love with a faucet. I’m fine with it!
Step 12: Caulk the Edges
Looking at these pictures, I do wish I had used some bath caulk to touch up the edges where the side backsplash piece meets the countertop. (The backsplash behind the faucet is all one piece, but the side is separate on mine).
But, I’m so hopelessly in love with the finished products that I don’t mind that or the little bits of uneven texture here and there or the little drip mark in each sink. They are barely noticeable unless you stand at the perfect angle and realllllly examine the whole thing. And I don’t do that. So we’re golden. For us, it was the perfect budget makeover for our 90s-tastic sinks!
Time to Paint a Bathroom Countertop and Sink
The prepping and painting process took roughly 3 hours – 30 minutes for prep, 10 minutes of painting per coat (maybe closer to 20 minutes for the last coat), plus one hour drying time between each of the 3 coats. Rustoleum recommends 24 hours of curing before touching the surface and 72 hours of curing before getting the surface wet. So this is a project you can finish in a day, with the countertop and sink out of commission for a long weekend.
Painted Bathroom Sink & Countertop – Cost Breakdown
- Rustoleum Tub & Tile – $25.97 at Amazon (and enough for 2 counters & sinks!)
- 4-inch roller and cover – $0 (from our stash)
- Brushes – $0 (from our stash)
- 400 grit sandpaper – $3.97 at Lowe’s
- 320 grit sandpaper – $0 (from our stash)
- Comet – $0 (from our stash)
- Lime Away – $3.99 at Meijer
- Sponge – $0 (from our stash)
- Abrasive sponge – $2.99 at Meijer (we used Scotchbrite)
- Tack Cloth – $2.09 at Lowe’s
Grand Total Cost: $39.01 – for 2 bathrooms!
(If we didn’t have some of this stuff already, we may have spent an extra $20 or so.)
Adding in the faucet from Wayfair ($68.22) brings the total up to $107.23. Still not too shabby, and much less expensive than getting new countertops!
I would say painting like this is the cheapest way to update a bathroom countertop. It requires some labor, but the out of pocket expenses are low!
Getting the room all dolled up for the holidays was a treat, especially now that that counters are so clean and fresh. The half bath is one of the only rooms in our house that is consistently clean. Between 3 little boys, 1 big one, and 3 dogs, someone is always making a mess in some corner of the house, so I try really hard to keep this room clean. It’s great for guests and perfect for grabbing a tiny break from the reality of motherhood while I sit in there and pretend to go to the bathroom for 3 minutes just to get some peace and quiet. (Shhh … don’t tell my boys!)
Update: One year later, my painted vanity top still looks amazing! Read my full follow-up review here.
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Kelli, thank you so much for sharing with us! Such a nice budget-friendly update to those 90’s sinks!
Remodelaholics, head on over to I’m Flying South to catch up with Kelli and more of her creative projects (like recovering a storage ottoman with some great fabric)… and stay for the food (yum!)
Be sure to follow Remodelaholic so you don’t miss any more of our projects or our amazing DIY guests, too.
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More affordable DIY bathroom updates
Learn how to skim-coat concrete on a countertop and integral sink for an amazing modern update to a dated sink.
If you’ve got outdated tile on your bathroom walls, you can paint the tile in your bathroom
And you can also paint the tile in your shower and tub!
As you plan your bathroom makeover, this post will help you plan and execute a budget bathroom makeover, instead of spending a bundle on a renovation or remodel.
How to Paint a Bathroom Countertop and Sink
Ingredients
- Rustoleum Tub & Tile kit just one box was enough for 2 sinks and countertops; I used gloss white and they now have satin finish in both white and light gray “coastal fog”
- 4- inch paint roller & tray if desired
- fine-bristled paint brush
- craft sponge brushes
- Comet or other similar cleaner
- sponge
- Lime Away or other similar hard water remover
- abrasive sponge
- tack cloth
- 400-600 wet/dry sandpaper
- bucket
- bath caulk
- lots of elbow grease!
Instructions
Prepare the Countertop and Sink
- Remove the faucet and drain, and use a putty knife or scraper to remove any old caulk from the counter or where the backsplash meets the countertop. Alternatively, you could tape around the faucet and drain instead.
- Scrub the sink and counter mild abrasive cleanser (like Comet) and rinse well. Then scrub with a hard water cleaner like Lime-Away and rinse well. Be sure to remove all soap and residue.
- Sand with 320-400 gfit sand paper to rough up the surface and the give the paint something to grab. Clean the sanding dust from the sink really well using wet and dry cloths, and a tack cloth.
- Tape any surfaces that you do not want to get the tile paint onto (walls, vanity, etc) with a painter’s tape. You may want to use some drop cloths to protect the cabinets and floor.
Mix and Apply the Countertop Paint
- Wear a good respirator (and safety glasses and gloves) while mixing the parts and painting. Follow the instructions on the can to mix the tub and tile paint. It’s pretty simple: just mix Part A (applicator) and Part B (base).
- Use a fine-bristled brush to cut in around the edges of the counter with the paint. (I actually did the entire first coat with a brush instead of a roller. I found it much easier to get a nice thin coat on with a brush.)
- Use a 4″ foam roller to roll the paint in THIN coats on the larger areas.
- Let the first coat dry. Rustoleum recommends waiting 1-2 hours between coats, and applying 2 coats. (I coated the vanity top really thinly, so I actually applied 3 coats for the coverage I wanted.)
- Apply the second coat (and I did a third coat as well). The trick with this stuff is not to get a super thick layer on there, but not too thin either. Too thick = bubbles and drips. Too thin = weird texture and marks. Let each coat dry for at least an hour before starting another coat.
- Let the paint cure. Rustoleum recommends 24 hours of curing before touching the surface and 72 hours of curing before getting the surface wet. Don’t try to cut this short! Remove the tape and allow the epoxy paint time to cure.
Finishing Up
- Reinstall the faucet and drain after the recommended 3 days of cure time.
- Use bath caulk to touch up the edges where the side backsplash piece meets the countertop.
Notes
First published 31 Dec 2014. Last updated 31 May 2024.
Thanks so much for having me!!
Thanks so much for being our guest, Kelli!
what kind of epoxy did you use? Did you paint it on with a brush?
I am 62 widow my baths havent been updated since 90’s this is a project i think I can do on a budget. I have priced replacing mine just for sink alone $200-$300 if not more. Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome! We’d love to see when you finish!
what about re-doing a kitchen counter? We have laminate and can’t aford to re-do- I was thinking some kind of tilew wiht urethane to fill in?
the link doesn’t lead to that exact faucet and I can’t find it- I looked around. Help! Those faucets are typically called “Porcelain cross handle” anyway.
https://www.wayfair.com/Kingston-Brass-English-Country-Double-Handle-Centerset-Bathroom-Faucet-with-ABS-Pop-Up-Drain-KB7-KBBB1082.html
Love your work!! How have the sinks stood up to regular use? Is all the water affecting the new surface? Ty!!! Tina
Hi Tina! Thanks for your question! We’ve had the sinks done for about 5 months now and they’ve held up great. This bathroom gets used the most, and our 3 little boys are not gentle with it 🙂 I use a gentle, non-bleach bathroom cleaner on it, but also wipe it with Clorox wipes almost daily and it still looks like new!
I have been really researching this option as I have two thirty year old sinks that are huge contenders for a makeover. Over all though I keep seeing reviews that at the 6 month mark the painted sinks start peeling, etc. As this does require a bit of laborious time and the kit itself while not expensive is not cheap either. So, I am still wondering if I should pull the trigger and spend the $40 for painting or the $97 for a new sink. ????
Hi Laura!
We chose this route because we knew that we will most likely completely remodel these bathrooms in a few years, so we wanted a quick, cheap, temporary fix. If you’re looking for a quick fix, this is a great way to go, but if you want something more long-term, I’d skip it and go with new sinks. Hope that helps! 🙂
What was the epoxy used for? Did I miss that?
Hi Lisa! The Rustoleum kit contains 2 parts that you mix together before painting. The paint is mixed with epoxy, therefore I kinda just used the terms interchangeably. Sorry for the confusion 🙂
I just wondered how your ‘concrete’ sink and this painted tile are holding up under ordinary scrubbing?
Hi Judy! Thanks for the question. I’m sure Kelli will be happy to report on her painted sink, and our contributor Tasha posted an update video in the concrete sink tutorial — or you can ask more questions there if you’d like more details, too. Thanks for reading!
Hi Judy!
It’s been about 5 months since we refinished the sink and it is holding up beautifully! This bathroom is used the most in our house and we haven’t had any issues, even with our 3 little boys abusing it. 😉 I clean it with a gentle, non-bleach cleaner, but also wipe it down with Clorox wipes almost every day. Still looking beautiful! 🙂
Help, Please,
Did you re-caulk the areas that need caulking?
if yes, did you caulk before or after stating to paint the sink and splash?
Thank you for this awesome post, I am in the middle of it but not sure if I need to re-caulk now.
Hi Susanna! Our caulk was actually in good shape, so we painted right over the top of it. There is a little seam on the side of the sink that should probably be caulked, and I think about it every time I’m in the bathroom, but I just haven’t taken the time to do it. I’m no expert, but we had no problem with the epoxy going over the caulk. Hope that helps!
What did you do to the cabinets?
Hi Lenze!
I took the doors off of the cabinet and removed the hardware from the door. Primed everything with some good primer (maybe Kilz? I can’t remember) and then painted it all. The color is Blue Coal by Valspar. Finished up with new hardware before re-hanging the doors.
Hope that helps!
Hi Kelli! I see that you also painted the cabinet part of the bathroom sink as well. I apologize if I missed it, do you have separate instruction for doing that part, too?
Hi Heather!
You aren’t missing it! Here is the quick breakdown of what I did to the cabinets…
I took the doors off of the cabinet and removed the hardware from the door. Primed everything with some good primer (maybe Kilz? I can’t remember) and then painted it all. The color is Blue Coal by Valspar. You can use a brush to trim, but use a 4 inch sponge roller to get a nice smooth finish for the rest! I finished up with new hardware before re-hanging the doors.
Hope that helps!
This looks like a great option for us. Were about to move into a house with 4 baths that all have this type of sink. Yuck! I’m wondering, if you just sand the whole thing down, do you really need to go over it with comet and lime away? Won’t sanding take any gunk off?
Hi Renee! Apologies for the very late reply. The comet and limeaway help get the grime off before sanding, so that you can sand effectively. I definitely felt monotonous, but I’ve seen people complain about peeling paint, so I decided that I wasn’t skipping any steps, no matter how monotonous! 🙂 Hope that helps!
Is the sink and counter made of real marble? Or is it made of marbled plastic because that makes a huge difference. My sink is metal and the counter is made of real marble so I am hesitant to use this product because I have a feeling it works better on plastic than marble and metal. Still I would like to paint at the very least the sink. Is it even possible to paint a metal sink?
Hi Jo! The sink is cultured marble, and a year later it’s holding up beautifully. Rustoleum says that it is to be used on ceramic, porcelain or fiberglass, so I’m not sure how well it would work on metal.
Rustoleum recommends using this product on cultured marble but you are saying it is still holding ups it still good now?
Thanks!
Hi Heather! I don’t think that Rustoleum specifically recommends using the product on cultured marble, but I decided to give it a shot anyway. And yes, it’s been a year and a half now and the countertop and sink still look as good as they did on day one! I am so pleased with the results!
Thank you so much for your tutorial! I have the identical sink but an awkward 40″ cabinet with it. This is Exactly an great alternative to an expensive replacement. I was wondering if your cabinet hinges are outside/showing or inside? Were you able to switch the difference if so? Mine are outside, which dates the cabinets also.
Great to hear the Epoxy is still holding up.
Hi Stephanie! My hinges are inside, so we didn’t have any replacing to do. Switching hinges can be so tricky! I hope that were able to find some more modern ones or figure out how to switch to inside hinges! 🙂
I’m sooo glad you shared this. I’ve wanted to repair my scratched tub for 2 years now and actuall bought the Rustoleum Tub & Tile paint last year (yeah, I’m a fast mover, huh?) After seeing your blog and the wonderful results you and hubby achieved, I’m gonna go for it! Thanks for the wonderful details you shared to making it success–I’m not afraid anymore.
Suzanna, I’d love to hear about your results when you finally get around to doing it! 😉 (I do the same thing with house projects!) I have heard mixed reviews from people who refinish tubs, so I’d love to know how yours holds up.
I painted my tub and the paint peels very easily, unfortunately. I painted the tile as well and that seems to be holding up just fine.
I really want to try this, BUT, I don’t know if I want plain white. Did you put any kind of top coat/sealant/poly over it or is the finished project just that shiny? Do you think I could put the little granite “flakes” into the mix before painting it on? or is there some kind of color additive to change the color? This seems like one of the easier ways to “paint” those sinks that I’ve found.
Hi Tammi,
The finished product is just that shiny! There is no type of sealant over it. You’re right, it was really easy compared to some of the other methods of sink-painting that I’ve seen. As far as color, I know that you are able to get Rustoleum’s countertop paint tinted at the paint counter, but I’m not sure about this product. They are similar, so maybe email Rustoleum or ask at your local paint store? I’m not sure about adding anything to the mix. I wonder if the flakes would add texture? You could try it on a sheet of melamine or something similar before making the decision to do it on your sink. I will warn you though, that once the epoxy/paint parts are mixed, you don’t have more than about 6 hours before the mixture starts to get really sticky and won’t spread well. So if you do a test run, be prepared to either use 2 kits or to make a decision right away after your test run. Good luck! I’d love to hear about your results!
Just wondering about painting a laminate counter top in the bathroom. What do you suggest?
I’m excited to try this. My sink has little cracks around the drain. Should I or do I need to treat those cracks with something before I apply the paint? Or does the paint cover that problem?
Thank you!
Hi love what u did. I also have a 90s marble bathroom vanity and want to paint mine like yours but with maybe black cracks in it to make look like stone..how could I achieve this?.
We have the cultured marble in the bathroom as the vanity top along with the entire shower interior. Any thoughts as to weather or not this type of paint would hold up inside a shower ? We will eventually re-model and the shower will be redone but it’s going to be closer to the end of our project list.
I’m sure Kelli can share her thoughts, but Heather also used it on her shower here and can give you some additional insights! 🙂 https://www.remodelaholic.com/update-tile-shower-tub-weekend/
Did just the tub and tile paint get it that shiny!?? or did you have to put something over the top? would u recommend this for a kitchen sink or counter?