A few months back, we shared this farmhouse TV console table on Instagram as one of our #imaremodelaholic features — and you all LOVED it just as much as we did! You know we love the barn door style Xs (see here and here) and the plank details is just perfect!
So we contacted the builder, Johnny of The Gritty Porch (and his co-designer, his wife Jessica) and they agreed to share all the details of how they built it — including building another one to take plenty of photos for you all! Johnny and Jessica were inspired by two pieces by our amazing friend, Ana White — this planked sideboard and the Grandy sliding door console — which they combined to make this beautiful farmhouse style planked rustic X console! A huge thanks to Johnny and Jessica for sharing their amazing work today — be sure to check out more of their beautiful teamwork at The Gritty Porch, and you can also follow them on Instagram and Facebook to see more.
Following their detailed photos and instructions, Justin sketched up some plans so you can build your very own rustic sideboard or console this weekend!
How to Build a Farmhouse TV Console or Sideboard
designed by The Gritty Porch, plans by Remodelaholic
*All Remodelaholic building plans and tutorials are for personal, non-commercial use only. Use this printable plan as you build, but don’t sell the PDF plan or otherwise distribute the file. (Items built following this tutorial may be sold, but the instructions and PDF file may not.) Thanks!
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- Table Saw
- Circular Saw
- Miter Saw
- Tape Measure
- Pocket Hole Jig
- Rubber Mallet
- Nail Gun
- Air Compressor
- (13) 1x6x96 Tongue and Groove Pine Boards (actual 3/4″ x 5 1/2”)
- (3) 1x2x96 Pine Boards (actual 3/4″ x 1 1/2″)
- (5) 1x5x96 Pine Boards (actual 3/4″ x 4 1/2″)*
- (2) 1x6x96 Pine Boards (actual 3/4″ x 5 1/2″)
- (6) 2x4x96 Pine Boards (actual 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
- (2) 2x8x96 Pine Boards(actual 1 1/2″ x 7 1/4”)
- (3) 2x10x96 Pine Boards(actual 1 1/2″ x 9 1/4”)
- 2x12x96 Pine Board(actual 1 1/2″ x 11 1/4″)
- (5) 11/16” x 11/16” x 96 Pine Finger-Jointed Cove Moulding(.688 x .688)
- 2” #8 wood screws
- Pocket hole Screws
- Wood glue
- 16ga 2.25” Brad nails
- Paint/stain (optional)
Purchase the printable building plan here for cut list and full detailed assembly diagrams and instructions.
Farmhouse Console Building Steps
The printable farmhouse console woodworking plan contains detailed measurements, cut information, and assembly steps. The steps here are an overview of the process.
Want to add doors to your farmhouse console? See this barn door entertainment center tutorial for details.
Base and top framing
Build base frame using 2X4’s. Two 2×4 runners/stretchers with two 2×4 cross ends, one each end. Two 2×4 centers placed equally from the inside of each side cross end. Repeat this for the top frame. Use 2” #8 wood screws and wood glue to frame.
Cut side 1×6 tongue and groove boards to length. Attach to the base frame sidewall with 2” #8 wood screws and glue, two screws per board. Rip the fourth tongue and groove board to width and save the other half for back wall as a starter board. Attach with one wood screw and wood glue. Repeat this for the other base sidewall.
It’s helpful to have a rubber mallet so that you can tap each board snug as you go attaching boards together
*Run a bead of wood glue down each groove when putting together tongue and groove boards.
Connecting top frame
Flip the base frame so that it is now on top. Place some wood glue on the sidewalls where the top frame will be placed. Place the top frame between the sidewalls and make sure all aligns (use clamps to hold sidewalls to top frame). Use 2” #8 wood screws to attach. 2 screws per board.
Connecting back wall
Now you can start the back wall by using the other half of one of the ripped sidewall boards or a full width board.
Start on one end and work your way to the other end. Attach using wood glue and the same 2” wood screws (I start the first board with two screws on the top and bottom and then one screw on top and the bottom for the rest of the boards). The last back tongue and groove board will need to be ripped to width.
*Measure last board with rip cut as it could vary slightly in width needed and cut accordingly. (Tongue and Groove boards often have a slight bow and vary in this, and this can throw off measurements slightly on widths/rip accordingly on end cuts)
Adding bottom shelf and making support frame for middle shelf
First add in the back shelf board, cut to length. Glue this down and screw with same 2” screws. One screw on each back corner that screws in to the 2×4 frames and another two at about 28” away from the sides towards the back.
Do this also for the front end, one screw each side and one screw each to attach to center frames which are approximately 28” from each side.
Next add the front shelf board, cut to length, and glue down and use one screw on each corner attaching to frame and also on screw for each of the front and back to attach to the center frames.
Next build the shelf supports for the middle shelf. Cut 1×2 supports and place on each corner and one in the center of the back wall of the inside of the console as shown in the picture. Secure with wood glue and 1.25” finish nails.
Cut two 1×2’s to length to run across the tops of the side supports, and fasten with wood glue and finish nails. Cut one 1×2 to run the back wall on the tops of the supports and fasten with wood glue and finish nails.
Next place one pocket hole on the fronts and backs of the top frame as seen in the pictures so that you can later attach the top of the console. These pocket holes can be placed at 1.5” away from the front and back framing on all center and side frames.
Next constructing and placing in the middle shelf. Cut one both shelf boards to length and join together with wood glue and three HD pocket holes and screws. One on each end at about 2” away from the ends and one in the center. This will give additional support to the shelf and keep from bowing in the long term along with support frame.
Now you can slip the shelf in on top of support frame for the shelf and fasten to shelf support frames with wood glue and screws (or use 16ga 2.25” nails) on each corner and one on the back wall center.
Now for the Decorative trim and x-frames
Rip face frame boards and cut two pieces to length, one for each exterior side wall. Attach with wood glue and finish nails. Next cut another ripped board to length to place at the front of the bottom console and covers the edges of the fronts of each of the 17.5” side 1x5s (no need to cut a 1×5 piece to add to the back).
Now repeat these same side and front cuts using the other ripped boards for the top part of the console. This is two shorter boards, one for each side, and one longer piece for the front.
Next cut six pieces to run vertical on the on each end of the sides and fronts to create the shaker/framed look. Attach using wood glue and finish nails.
*If you love to join a lot with pocket holes you could join these pieces as face frames first and then add as one piece per side and front.
Next construct X’s. Using 1x2s mark for two pieces at length and parallel miter cut at 20 degrees on each end for each piece. Next mark four 1x2s at length as the longest side and miter cut one end at 20 degrees and the other end at 50 degrees for each of the four pieces. Attach as seen in the pictures using wood glue and finish nails.
Next the bottom layer trim using ripped boards. Cut one for each bottom side to length, mitered in on both ends at 45 degrees. Cut to longer lengths mitered in at 45 degrees on each end for the front and back of the bottom of the console. Attach with wood glue and finish nails.
Adding the Top
Cut top boards to length and join with 3 pocket holes and screws. One on each end about 2” away from ends and one in the center.
Center the Top and attach with glue and pocket hole screws, in the pocket holes made earlier. Paint or stain as desired and done!
*If you are painting or staining in two tones, it’s helpful to wait to attach top until after finishing.
Decorative cove trim for top and bottom (.69” cove molding purchased at Lowes)
Cut four pieces to length, mitered in at 45 degrees, for the long sides of the console.
Cut four pieces to length, mitered in at 45 degrees, for the shorter ends of the console.
Take two of each size and attach to the bottom and tops as seen in the picture using wood glue and finish nails.
Paint or Stain or Both
—————- Update 01/2018 —————-
Our reader, Mary , sent us these photos of the beautiful sideboard she built.
Mary made a simple, but super smart change in the design. Here’s what she had to say:
“We used 1×6 boards for the side and back because I couldn’t find the tongue and grove boards without one side rough. With very little kids, I wanted it to be smooth on both sides. I used craft sticks to help keep the spacing consistent.
What a perfect way to make your DIY project exactly as you need it for your life! Thank you for sharing, Mary!
And our reader, Emily, sent us this photo of the console that her husband built following our plans — beautiful work!
Click here to purchase the full printable woodworking plan
Looking for more stylish console tables and sideboards to build?
You can upcycle one:
- TV Console from an Entertainment Center
- Entryway Console Table Made From an Old Cabinet
- Rustic Sideboard Using Old Windows
- IKEA Hack Cube Shelves into Pottery Barn Console
- Thrift Store Table into Storage Console
- Modern Floating Sideboard IKEA Hack
or build one, too:
- Entry Console with Storage Cubbies
- Double X Farmhouse Console Table (adjustable length!)
- DIY Printmaker’s Console
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First published 02.16.16 // Last updated 04.01.20