Build a Patio Cooler Table with Built-In Ice Boxes
This DIY patio table is the COOLEST, thanks to the built-in ice box drink coolers in the center! Follow the woodworking plans to build this picnic table with cooler and matching benches to make your outdoor dining area the place to be this summer.
You’ll also want to build this simple DIY modern pergola and indoor-outdoor farmhouse coffee table.
DIY Patio Table with Built-In Ice Boxes
designed by Heidi of Kruse’s Workshop
The very talented Heidi and Brent from Kruse’s Workshop designed and built this DIY outdoor table and benches to turn their patio into a dining area for BBQs and summer parties.
We teamed up with Amy from HerToolbelt to draw up the woodworking plans, so you can build your very own ice chest table and matching easy outdoor benches .
Get the printable patio table plans
Building A Patio Cooler Table
Howdy from South Dakota! I’m Heidi, and along with my trusty husband, Brent, we’ve been busy remodeling and building everything from picture frames to doll houses in our upcycled garage aptly nicknamed, Kruse’s Workshop. We are excited to share our detailed plans outlining our process for building an ice chest patio table, which we fondly refer to as “The Patio Party Table.”
Visit Kruse’s Workshop to see Heidi and Brent’s industrial iron pipe photo display and the amazing Barbie house they built!
This post contains affiliate links. Learn more and read our full disclosure policy here.
Dimensions
The finished patio table measures 76 1/8”L x 40 1/2″D x 30”H and features 2 drink coolers with lids.
The finished dining bench measures 64”L x 15”W x 17 1/2″H.
Materials:
- Printable Woodworking Plan (includes both cooler table and benches)
- 5 – 2×8 8′ length (table top)
- 2 – 2×6 8′ length (ice box lids)
- 5 – 2×4 8′ length (framing/skirting)
- 2 – 4×4 8′ length (table legs)
- 3 – 1×4 8′ length (ice box supports)
- 2 – 10″x20″ plastic planter boxes – see photo below
- 2 1/2″ Kreg pocket screws
- 1 1/2″ Kreg pocket screws
- 1 3/4″ Deck screws
- 8 – 5/16″ x 3″ bolts
- 8 – 5/16″ washers
- 8 – 5/16″ wood anchors
- 120 grit sandpaper
- 80 grit sandpaper
To build the matching bench, you’ll also need (per bench):
- 2 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ boards
- 3 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
- 1 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
For finishing the patio table & benches:
- Pre-conditioner
- stain
- exterior spar varnish
- foam brushes
- fine sanding block
Tools:
- Miter saw or circular saw
- Table saw (optional but very helpful)
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Drill
- Orbital sander
- Kreg Jig pocket hole jig
- Clamps
- 2 1/8″ hole saw
- 1/2 inch drill bit
- T square or L square (optional but helpful)
- face clamps like these
How do you add a drink cooler to a picnic table?
The table design is centered around these specific planter boxes, available in the outdoor/plant department at Home Depot or on their website.
At 20″ x 10″, they are the perfect size for a drink trough to hold plenty of summer time drinks while clocking in at less than $10 each! (It wouldn’t be a bad idea to pick up a few spares, in case you need a replacement down the road.)
If you can’t find these ice boxes or don’t have a Home Depot nearby, you can pick up similar inexpensive planters here or here on Amazon — you’ll just need to plan ahead and adjust the holes and supports to fit the slightly different length and width, so be sure to thoroughly review the sketched woodworking plans before beginning to build.
(And scroll down to see how one clever reader fitted the table to hold chafing dishes for serving food, too!)
Can I add an umbrella to the patio table?
There’s plenty of room in the very center of the table to add a hole to accommodate an umbrella, such as this.
See the reader-built photos here to see how one reader added an umbrella to the patio table with ice boxes.
How long does it take to build? How much does it cost?
With a few tools and plenty of patience, this project can be completed in a weekend, for as little as $150!
What is the best wood for an outdoor table?
Depending on the type of wood species used, materials will run anywhere from $150 – $350.
Cedar, a wonderful choice for outdoor furniture, will cost significantly more than Douglas fir, which is what we’ve chosen for the table you are about to see.
The Home Depot in our region carries Douglas fir, but only in the 2×8 and 2×6 material, so for the 4×4 legs we used Cedar.
How do you weatherproof a wood table?
No matter what type of wood you choose, several coats of a quality sealer are crucial to protecting the table and matching benches, not only from Mother Nature but also from our children, who are bound to spill dinner and dessert on it.
We chose to stain our table in American Walnut and then finish with several coats of water-based spar urethane in semigloss. (Read below for more details).
How to Build an Outdoor Table with Drink Coolers
Get the full instructions and dimensions to build the table and matching benches here in the printable woodworking plan.
Tip #1: Cut As You Go
We had seen similar ideas, but we felt we could improve the design to create a more durable, solid product that could withstand our brutal weather cycles.
For this reason, we do not recommend cutting your lumber to length in advance. We feel it’s best to make the cuts as you work through the plans, which will give you the freedom to make small adjustments as needed, ensuring a durable table.
As with any woodworking plan, be sure to read over all the construction steps in the Cooler Patio Table and Benches Plan before making cuts and beginning to build.
Tip #2: First Cuts
For each material and step, begin by cutting a half inch off one end of the board. Always take this first step when cutting a new board, as it will give you a clean, straight end to measure off of.
Tip #3: Sanding
As you build, sand each section of the patio table, smoothing all of the edges, rough corners and sides. It will be much easier if you sand the individual parts before the table is assembled.
Most of the sanding can be done with an orbital sander loaded with 120 grit sand paper. Rough spots may need 80 grit sandpaper.
Tip #4: Staining
After you’ve sanded each section, we recommend staining that section. It’s much easier to stain in portions than after the entire patio table is assembled.
Staining at intermediate assembly intervals (as noted in the woodworking plans) also helps ensure that the stain does its job to protect and waterproof the wood so your table will be durable in the elements.
Tip #5: Clamping
As you build, pay close attention to your pocket holes and screws. Place a clamp like this over your first hole to hold the boards level with one another. Drive your Kreg screw into place.
Keep moving your clamp with each screw that you put in to ensure the pieces remain flush with one another. This is especially important when building the table top, to keep pieces flush and even for a smooth and level tabletop.
Want a drink cooler table, but smaller? Build this outdoor coffee table!
How to Make Your Own Table Legs from 4×4 Posts
It’s fairly simple to create your own legs using 4×4 posts, a table saw, and wood anchors. Full details are included in the woodworking plans, but we’ve included an overview here because this is a favorite woodworking tip to save money on table legs.
Create the leg, then attach it to the table using a diagonal support and bolts. This system makes it very simple to remove the legs for storage or transport.
To create the flat surface, angle your table saw blade to 45 degrees. Make a pencil mark so you know how far to cut. Set the table saw fence at 2 3/4″.
On the new flat face, measure and mark the locations of the wood anchors. (These should match up with the support brackets built in the next step.) Using a 7/16″ drill bit, drill the holes about 1 1/2″ deep.Insert wood anchors and tighten with a 3/8 allen wrench.
To attach the legs, build diagonal supports that attach to the skirting, cut from 2×4 with 45-degree angles at each end.
In the center of the diagonal piece, mark the same locations as the wood anchors in the legs and drill holes using a 1/2″ drill bit. Attach the support to the skirting using deck screws, then attach the legs to the diagonal support using bolts and washers.
How to Finish and Weatherproof an Outdoor Dining Table
Once everything is assembled, sand once more with 120 grit sandpaper.
Since we were using Douglas fir, which is a softer wood, we chose to use a wood conditioner so that our stain coat would come out more evenly.
About 15 minutes after I applied the wood conditioner and wiped off any excess, I applied a coat of basic interior oil based wood stain with a foam brush.
After the stain was dry, I applied three coats of this water based spar urethane, sanding VERY LIGHTLY with a fine sanding sponge in between coats.
And the finished patio cooler table looks like this:
Reader Photos and Alterations
We love seeing what you’ve built using Remodelaholic plans! Tag us @remodelaholic or #imaremodelaholic or submit a brag post here to show off your work.
Michael’s outdoor table with ice chests in the center
Michael writes: “This was my first-ever wood working project. I started with the benches and then moved on to the table. The benches worked great. I’m glad you mentioned not cutting everything for the table ahead of time. There were a lot of pieces that needed specific measuring towards the end (ice box lids).
“I used pressure treated pine. It made the table insanely heavy but will hopefully be good for a long time. Because of the weight of the table, I added heavy-duty locking casters to the bottom. This allows me to move it without getting the neighbors.
“I had a little bending in the long boards on the top. I added pocket screws going from the ice box frames across to the outside skirting and it pulled everything into alignment. Also, with the weight, I figured adding some screws would help over time.”
Doug’s Patio Table with Serving Dishes
Doug writes: “I was looking for a project I could build to donate to an auction being held by the PTO of my daughter’s elementary school. I decided on this table, but instead of using the planter boxes as ice chests, I made the holes in the table the same size as the opening for steam table trays. The trays come in about 24 different sizes, and they come in stainless steel as well as two types of plastic. They also come with lids and tons of accessories. Beware though, the trays can get expensive if you’re not careful.
“In addition to the rectangular trays, they have adapters so you can drop in different sizes of round buckets. The buckets are great for soups, sauces, chili, and the like, but they are also good for filling with ice and holding a few bottles of wine or a 12-pack of beer.
“I’m currently in the process of using some parts from an old gas bbq grill to create a small fire pit for the table. I am using one of the full size trays and putting the burner tube inside, covered with either broken glass or lava rocks. a small propane bottle will screw into the bottom of the tray and hang securely from the try while in use. I’m not sure how that is going to work out yet, but I think it will be really neat. The kids could roast hot dogs and marshmallows right in the center of the table.”
So very cool! What a great project, and to donate, nonetheless! A great project for a great cause. Thanks, Doug!
Allan’s Cedar Patio Table with Drink Coolers
Allan says: “Everything was according to the plans, except I made my table from cedar. The flower boxes I used were slightly more narrow and longer than the ones in the plans, so my table ended up being about a foot longer, all told. It’s the envy of our neighbourhood and a welcome place to sit down after a long day at work.”
Anita’s Recycled Wood Patio Table with Coolers
Anita says:”Saw the table and had to have one, but built it in my usual style, from recycled wood. You can make old look good again.”
Marielle’s COOL Table
Inspired by this patio table and our patio coffee table with drink trough, Marielle shared with us her “cool” table, as she called it. 🙂 She writes that they used one large board for the table top and cut out a perfectly-sized section to fit the serving tray so that it hangs by the 4 edges. And see the unique legs? Brilliant! Thank you for the photo!
If you’ve built anything following our plans or inspired by something we’ve posted, we’d love to see! Submit a brag post here.
Get the printable drink cooler patio table plans here.
More outdoor patio furniture builds:
- indoor/outdoor farmhouse coffee table
- DIY wedding arch garden arbor
- vegetable garden arbor and trellis (with raised garden beds)
- space-saving DIY deck benches
plus don’t miss the viral DIY fire pit pergola!
First published 04.24.14 // Last updated 02.07/20
Thank you so much for featuring our project!
Thanks for being our guest, Heidi!!
The materials list shows 5 – 2×8 boards, but I only see 4 on the cut list. Am I missing something?
Thanks! We are starting this project tomorrow and are very excited.
This is awesome! How much did it cost your for all the supplies/to build it?
I used redwood, I had the lumber yard make the cuts for me. All it all it was about $250 – $280.
How neat! Love it.
What a fabulous idea! Love it and may have to copy it!
By all means, copy away! We’d love to see the finished project!
I love, love, love this project. How fabulous and what a great idea. I would love to have you link up to Inspire Me this afternoon. Party goes live at 3 PM. Hope to see you there.
Thanks for invite, Marty! I’ll be there this afternoon to visit and link up!
love the great idea! however, how do you drain the water/ice off the box/planters? did you drill holes or can you remove are the planters removable? Thanks!
Good question, Lilly! There are holes with plugs in the bottom of the planter box when you purchase it, but don’t take the plugs out or you and your guests will get wet feet as the ice melts and drips out! The table was designed so that you have plenty of room to lift the box up and out to empty it. Hope that helps!
Holy Moly! This is so kick *ss! I really need to take a class at home depot or something so i can get comfortable using power tools, i would really love to do this!
What a great project! I’ve added a link to one of our pinboards. Check them out at Pinterest.com/Homedepot
How do you lift the boxes out of the table without pushing from below?
How do you lower the boxes into the table without pinching your fingers?
Have you thought about adding a under-table pigeon hole for storing koozies?
Good question, Marcus! There is a gap between the ice box and the table frame, plenty of room to wrap your fingers around the edges to lift them out. No need to push them up from below. And that’s a great idea to add a spot for koozies!
Where did you get the wood anchors from? The ones I’m finding online, look nothing like the ones you are using. Thanks for sharing this project I’m going to try and build one for myself. 🙂
Alyson, we picked up our anchors from our local hardware store – Ace Hardware. Good luck with your build!
We built our table but had the frame come right off after using the suggested 1 1/2″ pocket screws to try to secure the 2×4’s to the table top….there just wasn’t enough screw to hold this heavy table together. We ended up using 3″ screws and all is secure now. This was our first real furniture build and we learned a lot. I would say most important, measure everything before and after, to ensure the cut was just right. A slight problem left & ignored in the beginning runs through the whole project. We are applying the finish tonight and stained the table and benches an almost eggplant purple color. Can’t wait to use them!
Thanks for the feedback, Donna. We are glad you have it figured out and that it is all coming together for you. The 1 1/2″ screws may not have worked for you for several reasons. The Kreg Jig may not have been set up properly, the pocket screws may not have been drilled deep enough or your material for the top may have been thicker than ours. When you’re done, would you share pictures of the finished product – the eggplant color sounds amazing!
I built this table with my 23 year old son and husband, we all checked the instructions over and over and over! We did have the Kreg Jig set at 1 1/2″, drill depth 1 1/2″, and exactly the same wood list suggested. We very much followed instructions, no idea what could have gone wrong. We used Douglas Fir and the only modification we made was to add 1 inch to all the legs since we are taller people. I thought I must have read something wrong when it fell apart despite re-reading the instructions through every single step wanting a perfect table. Now that we are done, I love the table and how big it is, it is VERY heavy. Thank so much for sharing the design with us! I will send a picture when I figure out how to post it.
Donna, I’m glad you got it all figured out. We’d love to see a picture! You can email it to hello@remodelaholic.com or message us over on Facebook, if that’s easier.
According to the Kreg website 2.5 inch screws should be used to join wood that is 1.5 inches thick.
I know some have used 3inch since the 1.5 inch is not correct.
Is there a step to use the 1.5 inch screws?
I’m hoping there’s a definitive answer to this. Kreg’s website, and the Kreg HD (for 2x lumber) list 2 1/2 inch screws as the proper size. I’m tempted to split the difference and go with 2″ screws.
Any thoughts?
Al,
I went through and noticed that as well. I’m using 2-1/2 inch pocket hole screws instead of 1-1/2in called for in the plans.
I’m posting this in two threads, but it’s relevant to both. I used the Kreg jig at 1 1/8″ and used the 1.5″ screws to attach the frame/skirt to the table. I used 32 of them, and it’s plenty sturdy.
I think the 1.5″ screws are to make sure the screws don’t go through the table top, but I’m not sure if it was an issue.
I’m posting this in two threads, but it’s relevant to both. I used the Kreg jig at 1 1/8″ and used the 1.5″ screws to attach the frame/skirt to the table. I used 32 of them, and it’s plenty sturdy.
I think the 1.5″ screws are to make sure the screws don’t go through the table top, but I’m not sure if it was an issue.
Thanks for sharing this amazing design! I’m building one for my dad’s birthday. I had to double check the numbers a few times to make sure I didn’t mess up somehow, but it seems to me that 5 2x4x8s are needed for this. Building the icebox frames used 2 whole and a portion of a third that left it impossible to get two 66 3/4 pieces for the skirt. If the first set of cuts need to be done a specific way to allow more lumber for the end you may want to consider adding that to your instructions. Again thanks for sharing such a wonderful project!!!
Randy, thanks so much for the feedback – and your are correct that it should be 5 2×4’s instead of 4. I have contacted Remodelaholic to have them update the quantity. There’s nothing worse than getting most of the way through a build and having to run back to the store for one additional piece of wood!
Thanks, Randy, and thanks, Heidi — the post is now updated to show the correct amount!
According to your material list you need 4 2x4x8. That’s 384 inches of 2×4. Going through the instructions the build calls for 4 at 34.25, 4 at 20.75, 2 at 66.75, and 2 at 31. That’s 415.5 inches. Without even going into the puzzle that is fitting these cuts to have the least amount of scrap possible. I had to go out and by 2 more 2x4x8. Unless I’m missing something your material list is a little off.
This is great! I’m going to give it a try this weekend. One question: when do you use the 2 and 1/2 inch vs 1 and 1/2 inch kreg screws? Also, I was too lazy to do the math, but will a 50 pack of each be enough?
Mike, sorry I left out when to use each size of screw! We used the 2.5 inch screws for all of the general assembly. The 1.5 inch screws were just used to attach the table top to the frame. We were afraid anything longer could potentially poke out through the top of the table once it was turned right side up.
A box of 50 screws in each size should be enough to complete this project. Thanks for reading and good luck!
Also, what are the final dimensions of the table?
Mike, the final dimensions are approximately 76 1/8 x 40 1/2.
Thanks Heidi! Do you have a link to provide as to where I can find the wood anchors? I can’t seem to find them at any of the big box stores nearby.
We found our wood anchors at Ace Hardware but here is a link from Amazon if you are having trouble finding them at your local hardware store.
https://amzn.to/T9bZvV
For whatever reason the link for the iceboxes on amazon did not work, can you repost that? I would love to make this table! It is gorgeous!
Hi! Love the project! I too am having difficulty finding the wood anchors. Can you tell me if this is similar to what you used? Thanks!
https://m.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-5/16-in-Brass-Standard-(SAE)-Wood-Insert-Lock-Nut/3012575
This reply is for Tonya, who sadly didn’t include her email to be notified of this, so hopefully she checks back.
I used pretty close to those exact item. I found mine at a local Ace hardware, but not every Ace carries them (as I found out at the one closest to my house did not, but one about 5 miles away did, so call ahead before you go). They work so far, but instead of using an allan wrench, I used a wide-head flathead screwdriver.
Thanks for much for sharing this project. My wife got me a Kreg jig for Father’s Day and I’m itching to get to work on this table for our new house. Can you tell us when you used what pocket screws at what times during the build? I’m purchasing both sizes, but I can’t seem to find any reference as to when to use what size. Thanks so much, and here’s hoping my table turns out anything like the one pictured here!
You are going to love the Kreg Jig, Jeremy! I apologize for leaving out when to use the different sized screws. For all of the main assembly, use the 2.5 inch screws. When it’s time to attach the table top to the frame, we used 1.5 inch screws to ensure they wouldn’t poke out through the top of the table once turned right side up. Hope that helps and let us know if you have more questions! Good luck!
I actually used 2″ Kreg screws to attach the frame to the table top. They provide just enough bit to hold everything in place but not got through the table top. This is a very important step to this build and you should definitely use a longer screw! Also double check the settings of your step drill – VERY IMPORTANT, as well as your Kreg jig. Drilling the wrong size pocket holes can ruin your whole project. If you look at the picture provided regarding the setting of your step drill, it is incorrect. Measure every thing twice to be correct. I hope this helps. I almost have my table done and there have been many trial and errors to make it. I just have to put the poly on it. Good Luck!!! Bev
Thank you so much for this great tutorial. I followed it and made the table and bench this weekend. I couldn’t find the leg anchor bolts you used but found other bolts in Home Depot. If anyone else has this issue, do some research on “Hanger Bolts”. Similar to the anchor bolts used in your tutorial. Hanger bolts have a corse thread on one end and machined on the other. They make a special bit for tightening these hanger bolts down but I simply used 2 nuts and threaded them all the way down to the corse thread. You may have to tweak the 45 degree corner supports to accommodate this type of bolt. I ended up cutting to about 7″ before I cut the 45 on them. You can use a crescent wrench to drive it into the legs. I also tweaked the Step 4 adding the ice box frame to the table top. Some of the middle boards in my table were warped. I added a couple extra pocket holes in the ice box frame to suck the table top boards down to the ice box frame. All in all it was a very good tutorial to follow. I love that you paid extra attention to making sure you stain the edges before installing boards. Things I learned: Sometimes it helps to pre-drill boards before driving screws into the board. This is very helpful to prevent the board from splitting. I did this method when assembling the ice box lids. My boards were super soft and split as soon as I placed my first screw. Pay close attention to how you set up your kreg jig. I was not set to exactly 1-1/2″ on the top column. I ended up screwing a couple through to the other side. I was careful to not screw through the top of the table but all the side rails ended up with a tip of the screw poking through. I was a 2×4 board under but over on a 2×8. I ended up ripping the 2×8 down and made a couple 2×4. I built the bench as well so combined the materials list. A cut list may be helpful as well as suggestions as to what cuts to make to each board. I tried to make a cut list and be efficient with cuts but still wound up short in material. Anyway thank you again for this. I will be enjoying my table for years to come thanks to you!
Thanks for sharing your tips, Derek! Sounds like it turned out great!
I was wondering if anyone who’s built this has tried drilling a he in the middle for an umbrella? I’m all finished with mine but the staining and was contemplating doing this.
Randy – we actually just drilled a hole in ours for an umbrella 2 weeks ago! My husband just made sure to drill the hole the exact diameter of our umbrella pole so that it doesn’t lean over.
Randy – I used a hole saw to add an opening for my umbrella. I tested first on a few scrap pieces of wood which I then cut directly down the middle and joined together around the umbrella. My first cut was too large and next was too small so I ended up taking a trip to HD as I needed 1 3/4 inch which wasn’t included in my kit. Good luck!
Randy,
I used a combination of my jig saw and Dremel to cut the hole out. There’s plenty of space in the middle support to do it!
This looks awesome. My husband and I want to build it soon. Just wondering about how long it took you from start to finish, we are newbies at this. Thanks!
Lauren, it took us a full weekend to build the table plus matching benches. Granted, we had to stop and take a lot of pictures, so that ate into our time – but if this will be your first big build, I would plan on a full weekend. It will be worth it!! Good Luck!
Hi
Could this be built longer, to accomodate 3 people per side by just adjusting the dimensions of wood? Do I need additional support to hold the weight if it’s longer? I love this, and want to make it!!
Ken, you’re in luck! The table is built to accommodate 3 people on each side plus one person on each end – so 8 people total! No need to modify the plans. We easily put three adults on each side and if you use our bench plan, they are definitely strong enough to hold all of those people! Good luck with your build!
Hi Heidi – Love the table. I was wondering if there was a way to make 2 smaller tables. Reduces the weight of the table and more flexibility in seating on the patio. I’d also use smaller planters which are 15 x 8. What do you think? Would I need to do anything different other than shorten each cut?
Also, it looks like you used kiln dried wood instead of pressure treated. Will using the spar varnish protect the table from the outdoor elements??!!!
Final question and is completely unrelated to the table itself, but, I noticed in your pictures, your workboard that you have on top of your saw horses is exactly what I am looking for. That white board looks sturdy and more importantly FLAT!! Is it a MDO, MDF…… Please share!!
Thanks again and can’t wait to start building this weekend.
Marie