We are big fans of Chip and Joanna on Fixer Upper and all that farmhouse style, so Turning Tables DIY Week just would not be complete without a DIY farmhouse table! Jillian from I Am a Homemaker built this large beautiful table with just the right handmade details, and she was kind enough to let us draw up some plans to go along with her directions, so you can build one too! Give Jillian a warm Remodelaholic welcome, and check out all of the #TurningTablesDIY posts here — be sure to subscribe by email or RSS and follow along over on Facebook so you won’t miss a single one of the amazing posts we have coming up!
DIY Farmhouse Table + Building Plan
by Jillian of I Am a Homemaker
with building plans by Remodelaholic
Hello! I am Jillian and it is so nice to meet you. I blog at I Am a Homemaker. I am not a homemaker in the 1950’s way. I’m pretty sure my constant use of power tools bumps me out of that club. I chose that name because I like to do things that turn my house into a home. I DIY everything I can, mainly because it’s fun but also because it makes all my crazy ideas much more affordable. That leads me to why I am here.
I was so excited when I heard Remodelaholic was looking for tables to feature for Turning Tables DIY. I was even more excited when I got an email saying my table would be included! So let me tell you about why I built this table. I like things to be easy. When friends or family are coming over for dinner, I don’t want to spend my time adding leaves to my table and digging out folding chairs. I wanted a table that could fit 12 people but also fit in my dining room. I figured, if I could build one that fit 4 people on each side and 2 on each end, I could seat 12 without having a table so long it looks like it belongs in Windsor Castle. I had already added some farmhouse style moulding to my windows, farmhouse shelves to my walls and, my all time favorite makeover in my house, shiplap inspired walls so a farmhouse table was just what my dining room needed.
Ready to take on this project? Here’s how to do it.
DIY Farmhouse Table with Handmade Details
- 7- 5/4″x 8″x 8′ boards for the table top. These will remain uncut until they are assembled.
- 2- 5/4″x 8″x 6′ for the breadboards. These will also remain uncut until the top is assembled.
- 2- 4×4 posts
- 10- 2x4x8 studs
- 1- 1″ wide dowel
- 4- 4×4 @ 30″
- 10- 2×4 @ 43 3/4″
- 2- 2×4 @ 89″
- 2- 2×4 @ 39.5″
- 1- 2×4 @ 93.75″
- 2- 2×4 @ 48.5″
- 4- 1″ dowel at 4 1/2″
- Oscillating Multi Tool
- Circular saw
- Miter Saw (Not necessary but will make some cuts easier that using a circular saw)
- Tape Measure
- Kreg Jig
- 100 2.5″ Kreg Screws for everything except attaching the table top
- 50 2″ Kreg Screws for attaching the table top
- Large Speed Square
- 1″ Spade drill bit
- Random Orbit Sander with 120 and 220 sand paper
- A level or board you can clamp to your table top to use as a guide for your circular saw
- Ear and eye protection
This project took approximately 10 hours, including staining and polyurethane. The cost was under $200. Amazing, right?
I know that looks like a long list but don’t get overwhelmed. Just take it step by step, breathe and get help if you need it. Please use all tools per the manufacturer’s instructions and be safe.
We will be attaching almost all of the boards for this table, with pocket holes made with the Kreg Jig. Be sure to add glue to each joint before screwing the wood together.
The first thing to do is build the base of the table.
Attach the 2-39.5″ end aprons and 2- 89″ side aprons to the 4×4 legs using pocket holes and 2 1/2″ screws.
I placed a 1/4″ scrap piece of plywood under the apron to inset it a bit from the edge of the 4×4.
It is very important to make sure your table is square before adding the supports.
After all the sides are attached, measure the length of the table from the outside edge of one 4×4, to the outside edge of the diagonal 4×4. The measurements should match, if the table is square.
Once you have set it square, you can add your 2×4 @ 43 3/4″ supports. Space them as evenly as you can. These were roughly 12″ apart. Please excuse the fact that I was so excited my table was square, I forgot to take pictures of this step before I added the top 🙂
You will want to have pocket holes to attach the supports to the side aprons as well as the table top. Use 2 1/2″ screws for the sides and 2″ screws for the top.
Because you will be adding a bread board on the ends of the table, you need some extra support to be sure everything is secure for the long haul. You want a support piece where the table top will end and where the breadboard will begin. To do this I added 2 support pieces just inside the end aprons.
Now let’s get to the fun part. I hesitated for so long on this build because I just couldn’t find the perfect design. I wanted the rustic, chunky 4×4 legs but they needed a tad bit more interest. I thought peg and hole construction on the stretcher would do just that.
First, measure 3″ up from the bottom of the leg and mark it using your speed square. Then, measure 3 1/2″ up from that line and mark it. Measure 1″ in from each side and mark that, which will leave you with 1 1/2″ in the center. Now do the same thing on the opposite side because getting through this 4×4 is going to take some effort from both ends.
Start by drilling some holes with a drill bit to mark the edges as best you can.
Now it is time for that oscillating tool. Be sure it is fit with a wood blade and start cutting, following the lines. This will take some patience and maybe sweat and tears, but you will get through it.
Do this for all 4 legs.
Don’t worry if it doesn’t look too pretty at this point. Use some sand paper and clean it up a little.
Next you need to get your 48.5″ stretcher through the two holes at each end of the table. It may take some convincing, but you can place a scrap piece of wood against the stretcher and hit it with a hammer to get it to move a little quicker.
Once you get them through, you want to measure the legs at the top and at the bottom and make sure they match.
Measure the center of the leg where the stretcher comes through and fit your drill with the 1″ spade bit. In order to add the peg you will need to go through the 4×4 and the 2×4.
After you drill the hole, take your 4 1/2″ dowel piece and hammer it through.
This will eliminate any need for screws or nails to keep the stretcher in place. Cool, huh?
Next, you will need to notch out the center of that stretcher to accept the long stretcher. Again, mark the center of the board and match that to the center of the 2×4 and mark it. Using the oscillating tool, cut that piece out to the exact width and depth of the other stretcher which should be 3 1/2″ x 1 1/2″.
Set the stretcher in place and attach with 2 1/2″ screws straight through the top. You can fill in those holes with wood filler.
Time to assemble the top.
Lay out your 8′ boards on the top of your table base and arrange them so they look their best. If you like knots, then be sure the knots are facing up. If you like a cleaner look without any imperfections, then make sure the most perfect face is showing. Once you have them arranged the way you want them, draw a giant V on the top so you can match them up later.
Add 5, evenly spaced pocket holes to 6 of the 7, 8′ boards. You will be cutting off 5″ from each end, so place your outside holes about 7″ in. The end result will look like this.
Clamp each joint as you go and attach the boards using 2″ screws.
After the top is screwed together, you will need to trim the edges to make room for the breadboard. Clamp a guide board to the table so you get a straight cut with your circular saw. You want to cut off 5″ from each end but be sure to set your board to also account for the saw guide.
Repeat on the other end.
You are almost at the end!!! Is it starting to look like a table now? Take a minute and bask in that glory.
Ok, back to work.
The breadboard is up next. You want to measure each end of the tabletop separately. There is no guarantee that each end is the exact same width. Cut each breadboard to the width of the tabletop ends and drill 2 pocket holes per board. You can see what I mean on the diagram above.
Once that is attached, flip your top over and attach the base to it, using 2″ screws.
Give everything a good sanding and wipe off any dust.
Stain it whatever color you desire. Mine is Dark Walnut by Minwax. It is my go to stain color.
Use at least 3 coats of polyurethane. I like to use spar urethane because anything that is labeled indoor/outdoor has a little more muscle in my book.
Now sit back, relax, and enjoy your new table.
I keep 6 chairs at the ready, but the sides can each fit one more, and two people fit easily at each end. I built a bench that I can pull over to one end for some easy seating on a whim. You can find out more about that here.
Here are some updated photos of my dining room.
You can see the bench on the right, tucked under the windows. Seating for 2 in a jiffy.
And that’s it. I know it seems overwhelming, but just take it step by step and it will all work out.
Jillian, thank you so much for sharing with us! Remodelaholics, go pay Jillian a visit at I Am a Homemaker — you’ll love her farmhouse style and building plans, like this breakfast bar that would make an awesome console table, too!