DIY Slat Coffee Table
Hi, it’s Amy from Hertoolbelt back with another fun build project for your house. Speaking of houses, if you missed my last project, you’ll definitely want to check out these super cute House shaped shelves. I always like to check out the designs for the HGTV dream homes. I came across this cute slat coffee table that they used in the media room, and had to build it. The cottage coffee table used in the HGTV remodel is by Ethan Allen. My DIY version has a similar shape, but I changed a few things to use readily available lumber.
How to Build a DIY Slat Coffee Table
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- 1 – 2″ x 3″ x 8′ board (actual 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″)
- 2 – 1″ x 8″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 7 1/4″)
- 3 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2″-3 1/4″)
- 2 – 1″ x 3″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 2 1/2″)
- 2 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 1 1/2″)
- 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 1 1/4″ brad nails
- wood glue
- stain/top coat
Approximate lumber cost: $33
- 4 legs – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 17 3/4″ with 10 deg miter and 10 deg bevel (head) on each end, same direction
- 2 end bottom rails – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 22 3/8″ with 10 deg miter on each end, opposite direction
- 2 end top rails – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 17 1/4″ with 10 deg miter on each end, opposite direction
- 4 diagonals – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ with 32.3 deg miter on each end, same direction
- 2 side bottom rails – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 39 7/8″ with 10 deg miter on each end, opposite direction
- 2 side top rails – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 34 5/8″ with 10 deg miter on each end, opposite direction
- 2 slat support- 3/4″ x 1″ x 39″ ripped with one edge at a 10 deg angle (I cut one of these pieces at about 10″ to make it easier to slide the slats on.)
- 11 slats – 3/4″ x 3 1/4″ x 22 3/8″ + a little (10 deg bevel (head) on each end)
- 2 top supports – 3/4″ x 2 1/2″ or 3 1/4″ x 17 1/2″ + a little (10 deg bevel (head) on each end)
- 2 top – 3/4″ x 7″ x 47 1/2″ (I ripped the width down from 7 1/4″, although not necessary)
See instructions for additional cut detail.
Make the cuts for the end bottom rails, and end top rails. The ends are cut at 10 deg. Make the cuts for the diagonals, the ends are cut at 32.3 deg (or close to). Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the ends of the rail pieces and also to attach the diagonal pieces as shown. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the diagonals to the end bottom rail, then to the end top rail.
Cut 4 legs at 17 3/4″ long. Each end is cut with a 10 deg miter and 10 deg bevel.
Mark 3/8″ in from the sides of the legs. Attach the end rails to the legs with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the top and bottom side rail pieces (10 deg miters on each end) and drill pocket holes in the ends for 3/4″ material. Again mark 3/8″ in on the legs and attach the side top rails with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Make the side bottom rail at the same height as the end bottom rail. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the side bottom rails to the legs.
Cut 11 slats with a head bevel at 10 deg.
On the 2 slats at the end, you need make notches to go around the legs. Measure and mark the notch dimensions on 2 slats. Use a jig saw or similar to make the cuts.
To attach the slats, I decided to rip a piece of 1×2 wood down the middle at 10 deg. This makes a ledge for the slats to sit on. Glue and nail the ledge so the slats will sit flush with the top of the bottom rails. One of the rail supports, I cut at about 10″ from the end and left this part off until the slats were installed.
Alternatively you can attach the slats with pocket holes to the bottom rails.
Slide the slats into the ‘key’ formed by the 10 degree angle made by the rails. Space the rails 1/2″ apart. The slats don’t need to be glued, but you’ll want to secure them brad nails from sliding back and forth. Glue and nail the missing 10″ piece of rail support.
Cut a couple of 17 1/2″ pieces at a bevel of 10 deg. These will be used to screw the base to the top.
Cut the 4 top boards. I trimmed down the sides of the boards to 7″, so I would have nice straight edges for joining. Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material to join the boards together. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to secure the boards together.
Place the top onto the base and center. Use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the top to the base using the top supports.
Sand the coffee table until it is smooth, finishing with 120-150 grit sandpaper. Stain or paint the coffee table as desired. After the stain is dry, apply a coat of polyurethane.
For this table, I applied pre-stain conditioner according to the instructions, then stained it with Wisconsin Oak EZ stain. I applied a top coat of semi-gloss polyurethane.
You can add cute baskets to the bottom for storage in needed.
For more build plans check out Hertoolbelt:
Grand Island Console Table // Scroll Console Table // Crate Coffee Table
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LOVE this coffee table! I’m adding it to my lengthy build list!
This table is gorgeous! Unfortunately despite the detailed instructions, most probably I won’t be able to do it myself (should ask the hubby 🙂 )
This is just gorgeous Amy!! LOVE!!!!