Hi it's Amy from Hertoolbelt back again with another build project. If you've been following along with our build series, you've probably noticed a few ‘house' shaped projects. We have made the cute Playhouse frame for a fun reading nook. A little more recently, the house headboard. The house project that takes the cake is the amazing Bunk Bed Playhouse. When an Australian magazine, Home Life showed off this fun House Frame bed, we had to add it to the collection of ‘house' shaped tutorials, right!
How to Build a House Frame Twin Bed
Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of this Building Plan
This bed is designed to fit a twin mattress and box spring 39″ x 75″, with a no box spring option. Here are the overall dimensions of the bed.
Materials Needed
- 9 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″)
- 3 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′ boards (actual 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″)
- *5 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ boards (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2″)
- *1 1/2″ screws
- 2 1/2″ pocket screws (self tapping)
- 2″ brad nails
- Pendant Light
- wood glue
- wood filler
- sand paper
- Paint and primer or wood stain
* No box spring option
Cut List
| Quantity | Board Type | Length |
| 4 | 2×4 | 61 5/16″ |
| 4 | 2×4 | 30 1/16″ with angles see diagram |
| 2 | 2×4 | 35 1/2″ |
| 4 | 2×4 | 77″ |
| 3 | 2×2 | 77″ |
| 1 | 2×2 | 11″ see diagram |
| 1 | 2×2 | 7″ see diagram |
| 1 | 2×2 | 5 1/2″ see diagram |
| 5 | 1×4 | 39 1/2″ *no box spring option |
Cut diagram
(Make sure to save your extra wood pieces for crafts like holiday block crafts.)
Step 1
Cut the boards according to the cut list and cut diagram. First we will assemble the front and back house shapes. On the vertical boards, measure and mark 6 1/2″ from the bottom.
To join the boards, we will use pocket holes set for 1 1/2″ material. Apply wood glue to the joints and secure with 2 1/2″ pocket screws as indicated.
Step 2
Drill pocket holes in each end of the 5 – 77″ boards. The 2 lower 77″ boards are mounted 6 1/2″ up from the bottom. Secure with 2 1/2″ pocket screws as indicated. (Don't use wood glue if you want to disassemble the bed later.)
Drill pilot holes in the 2 – 77″ 2×2 boards in about 4 or 5 places, spaced along the length of the board. Attach the 77″ 2×2's flush with the bottom of the 77″ 2×4's. Secure with 2 1/2″ screws. The box spring will sit on this ledge. For added support, use the extra pieces of the 2×2's and install them on the inside of the front and back 35 1/2″ boards.
For the *No box spring option:
Cut 10 1″ x 4″ x 39 1/2″ boards for bed slats, you may have to trim the length a little to fit. Drill 2 pilot holes in each end of the bed slats. Space the bed slats approximately every 3 7/8″, starting with a space at the top and bottom. Secure the bed slats on the 2″ x 2″ supports with 1 1/2″ screws.
Step 3
Assemble the chimney pieces. Use 2 1/2″ screws and screw from the top down into the vertical pieces. Use brad nails and wood glue, and attach the chimney to the front roof about 13″ down from the peak.
Step 4
Remove any excess glue, apply wood filler to nail holes, cracks and blemishes and allow to dry. Sand the wood filler and house frame until smooth, finishing with 120-150 grit sand paper. Stain or paint and prime as you like. It looks like the bed in the inspiration picture was whitewashed. For tutorials on whitewashing see Whitewash Planked Ceiling and White Wash vs Dry Brush.
The little details are what make any project. I love the little pendant light hanging from the roof. IKEA carries light cords for $5 that plug into an outlet. They also carry cords with fun colors for $8. Add a pendant cover/shade that fits your decor and you have the cutest House Frame Bed on the block!
Hanging Loft Bed
DIY Daybed Cornice and Canopy
Bunk Bed Cottage Playhouse
For the roof pieces, you have them marked as 34″ in the cut list, 31 1/16″ on the cut diagram, and 30 1/16″ under step 1. Which one is the correct measurement? I am in the process of building this and just noticed the error. Thank you.
I apologize about the confusion. In the cut list 34″ is long enough that you can cut the angles later. The correct dimension is 30 1/16″. Thanks for catching that mistake.
Hi! I’m wondering the same question as Samantha. We are also building this right now.
I apologize about the confusion. In the cut list 34″ is long enough that you can cut the angles later. The correct dimension is 30 1/16″.
I am wondering how rigid this frame is. I am a little concerned about building this for my daughters first “big girl bed” . Does it seem to have much play on the uprights or is it fairly solid. I suppose I could use 4x4s but I would rather not.
What size mattress (in centimetres) does this need, when using without the boxspring
Thanks
What is the estimated cost for the wood to build this bed?
I used soft white maple. $400
You can used less expensive wood line pine or poplar.
I know this question is from a year ago but I still wanted to give you my thoughts. I just built this bed last week for under $20. I used 2x4s that we selected from the hardware store. The 2x4s take a little sanding (had the sandpaper) to get them smoothe but it’s worth the sanding to save the money. I used paint I had on hand but if I had to purchase the paint and sanding discs it may have added another $20 to the price.
Thanks for the comment, Sari! We’d love to see a picture if you’d like to share — you can message us over on Facebook or submit a photo here: https://www.remodelaholic.com/share-brag-post/
Do you have any idea how much weight this can support? I plan on building it but want to make sure I can lay in it with my daughter. We’re about 160 lbs together
Super helpful post, thank you! I am wanting to build this for a full size mattress. I know it will be 15 inches wider but do you know how long the upper boards for the ‘roof’ would be? (6th grade geometry is seeming awfully long ago 😉
Thanks,
Aubre
Have you received a response? I was wondering the same thing!
Do you have plans for a full size house bed???
Hi Amber,
Thanks for the comment! We don’t currently have full size plans, but we’ll put it on our list. Thanks!
How in the world do you make those pocket holes in the top?
The easiest way I’ve found to make the Pocket Holes is with a Kreg Jig. It’s a bit of an investment, but makes your projects turn out looking very professional. You can pick one up at most home improvement stores or even on Amazon.
Hi,
How does the kreg jig work on the angles? I set at 1 1/2 but the drill holes are far beyond the wood?
I’m having the same issue right now. my holes are ending up too close to each other in order to have at least two screws. I don’t want to use a biscuit jointer either cause I don’t think it will be strong enough joinery.
Put the pocket holes on the angled cut closer to the ‘inside part of the angle’, rather than the ‘pointy end’ of the board. You should be able to get the holes in the 2×4 that way. If the top part of the pocket hole goes through the side of the board, fill it with wood filler.
If you can’t fit two screws, get at least one screw in. The wood glue is really what gives the joint strength. The screws act as your clamp until the glue is dry.
Put the pocket holes on the angled cut closer to the ‘inside part of the angle’, rather than the ‘pointy end’ of the board. You should be able to get the holes in the 2×4 that way. If any part of the hole goes through the side of the board, fill it with wood filler.
Hi! Do you have this plan for a full size mattress too?
Thanks!
Not currently but we can add it to our wishlist 🙂