Mold your Character; Upstairs Bathroom Remodel; Part 7

Easy way to DIY taller baseboards, using your existing trim - as little as 20 cents per foot @Remodelaholic

I don’t know if you have this same problem, but our house is full of dinky, tiny base board moldings that are hardly an inch taller than the carpet.  Do you know what I mean?   Here is a picture, complete with dust and junk.

I mean I guess it is nice that I have base moldings at all, it is just a bummer that I can’t see them from way up here!  I know I’m tall, but didn’t realize I was that tall.  I do have good eyesight… so, I should be able to see the things…

Well, the bathroom was no exception, it too had the dinky, tiny, can’t even see ’em base moldings and we just didn’t want to fork out the cash $1.50-2.00 a linear foot for new meatier moldings.  Besides, I just knew that when I got used to seeing real base moldings in there, I would want to do it everywhere, and my bank account was getting weak in the knees just thinking about that!

Enter a cheap solution!!! DING! DING! DING!  My aha moment, “What if we gave our moldings a little lift, like high heels for base moldings?”  And the best news, I am about to tell you how…

How to raise up your base moldings

1. Remove all offensively small moldings, and tell them that they need to shape up!  But remove them carefully, as you will be reusing these.  If they have been caulked to the wall and or floor, cut the caulk with a box cutter. Then get your crowbar behind the molding and slowly pry it off the wall.

2. Clean them up.  With a small chisel or 1 1/2″- putty knife, remove any caulk.  Lightly sand the moldings, and wash them off, so that they are not gunky and yucky.  Make sure they are completely dry before moving to step 3

3. This is where some tools may be required.  This can be done in two ways, I am sorry to say, but the more tools you have the cheaper this is.  I will explain the basic tools first.

Purchase a 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ or wider MDF board in the length you need to span the room.
(it is the plain square pre-primed boards, Home Depot has them for $3.82 for an 8′ ft long board here)
a hand saw
miter box
wood glue
clamps (optional)
nails and hammer
(move to step 4.)

Purchase a 1/2″ x 6 ” MDF pre primed board ( in a little more than half the linear feet you need)
Table saw
Miter saw
Wood glue
Clamps (optional)
Nail gun
**the difference with the advanced is that you will rip the 6″ molding in half, so that there are 2 -3″ wide pieces.  Or, if you have a lot to do buy a 4′ x 8′ x 1/2″ sheet MDF and cut it into 3″ + strips, the if you can route a round top edge (to look like mdf below, this step can sanded down by hand)  if using a 4′ x 8′ sheet, the great part is this can be as cheap as .20 cents a linear foot.

4.  Now, once you both have your long strips of MDF and your molding, you are going to glue them together, with the little molding on top, see image below:

See how the MDf is below the old existing molding.  You can see the difference in wood grain.  When you glue these you can either hold them for a minute or two and lay on a flat surface or you can clamp them.  Keep in mind that you are going to be nailing these in place, and may have to caulk the seam.  In all actuality if it is easier you could install each piece one at a time to the wall, and just put a little glue in the seam when installing.  Caulk the crack if necessary once it is installed.
5. Once the glue is dry, I paint it.  I find it so much easier to paint moldings before installing, in the garage where I can drip to my heart’s content and not have to worry about getting paint on my new tile.  (I patch and spot paint after installed)
6. Lastly, all you need to do is miter your corners when reinstalling. If you need a full tutorial on installing them, let me know, and we will do that in the next bathroom.  Here you can see it being reinstalled. Just a few quick nails with the nail gun, or a hammer and nail.  When it is in, you need to caulk lightly the top to the wall and smooth this out, then paint the top.  I have found that if you don’t paint the caulk bead or seam, it gets really dusty and is harder to clean off.
Here is the finished product:
Is this a useful idea?  Let me know.
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Cassity Kmetzsch started Remodelaholic after graduating from Utah State University with a degree in Interior Design. Remodelaholic is the place to share her love for knocking out walls, and building everything back up again to not only add function but beauty to her home. Together with her husband Justin, they have remodeled 6 homes and are working on a seventh. She is a mother of four amazing girls. Making a house a home is her favorite hobby.

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  1. >You are my hero!!! It is so expensive, but I have such a huge desire for bigger molding! Super good idea! Thanks for linking to Poppies at Play!

  2. >Great point. I live in an 1852 house. Some of the larger moulding is still there but the rooms that they "did over" without even considering the historical architecture; the moulding was lost. I am slowly doing a room at a time.

  3. >Oh I am so glad you posted this… I have been holding off replacing my skinny molding because I just couldn't afford to replace it all… what an inexpensive way to bump them up… thanks so much for sharing.

    Hugs Deb

  4. >That looks fabulous and is going on my fav list for this week.
    Did you enter my give-a-way? You should you could win There are only 2 people who have done it so far. (Yes my Google is still messed up.)

  5. >This is a fabulous idea! What a great and inexpensive way to "beef up" the moldings. Thanks for linking up!

  6. >I want to do this in our house, we ripped out all the old molding, it was just the plain curved kind for rentals, and yucky. So, we have to buy all new baseboards, but obviously can't afford the tall type. So I was at Depot a while back trying to match up MDF with a baseboard, but all the MDF boards are wider than the baseboards, which would leave us with a sharp square edge just in front of our actually base board that we would be glueing on (which I thought made it look a little hokey). So, did you just caulk the gap, or did you use a router to add detail to make it fit better, or did your moldings just happen to work out width wise, or what? Cause I really want to do this, so that we can buy the cheaper moldings instead of the $2/sq ft nice tall ones! Thanks for your help, and they look great!!!

  7. >Thats amazing! If you had shown us the completed picture first, I would have NEVER guessed how it was done. Thats the sign of a really good work around!

  8. >Hello…

    Wow…fabulous idea!!! You know, I have never thought about "beefing up" the baseboards before! I have often seen similar ideas for doing crown moulding. I love, love, LOVE this idea and it really would be so easy to do! Your tutorial was very clear and quite instructional! Thank you, so much for sharing this great idea with all of us today for Sunday Favorites!!! Ohhhh yes, such a beautiful transformation of those little skinny baseboards…love how they turned out!

    So happy to have you join in with the fun of Sunday Favorites this week, my friend…thank you!!! Have a wonderful week!!!

    Warmest winter wishes,
    Chari @Happy To Design

    PS…I do apologize at being so late to get by to see your Sunday Favorites post…I had to go out of town yesterday and I'm just now getting to the computer!

  9. >I think our house has the exact same tiny molding and I so wish it was taller. Thanks for the step by step I'll be showing my husband in hopes that he will want to do it!

  10. >Wow! Genius idea! We're trying to keep on budget for our remodel, but the skimpy molding (just like yours) was making us sad. Now I have an awesome idea on how to pump up the style without spending a bunch of money. Excellent!

  11. >Brilliant! I have been wanting to update ours as well! I think i just might do this! Thanks so much for sharing. I found you via tater tots and jello!

  12. >That's a great idea! I don't think it would work with ours though…the cheap builders around here use door casing instead of baseboards, which is much thinner and wimpier-looking. But I may just give it a try anyway.

  13. >Good to know(especially repainting the calk)! If you haven't done it already, I'd love to read a tutorial on how to replace trim after you've taken down off the wall. 🙂

    Also, if you know any secrets on how to match the paint of one piece of trim to another, already installed piece… I'd love to know that too. 😀

  14. >I had a question about two things and so I thought I would put the answer up here for everyone;s info!

    As far as painting caulk goes it's easy, all you have to do is have to buy paintable caulk!!! It will say on the caulk dispenser if it is paintable. So just make sure you check the label. I usually paint my base a bright white so I buy bright white caulk too. Make sure when you put it on that you smooth out the bead nicely, I have found that a bowl of water and a rag is essential for caulking, I will dip my finger in the water and then run it along the caulk to get a perfectly smooth finish, and believe me I have used at least a ton of caulk in my life.

    Do NOT use silicone! The paint will NOT stick to this! The paint will bead up every time, and that is SO frustrating.

    My rug was from TJ Maxx.

    Hope that helps!