Installing Trim: A Beginner’s Guide
Installing trim just got do-able for beginners! Crown molding, chair rail, window and door casing, and shadow box trim — Jenny did it all as a complete beginner and she’s sharing what she learned so you can do it, too!
More for you: Ultimate Guide to Wainscoting – DIY Craftsman Window Trim (with no angle cuts!) – Trim and Molding Tutorials and Tips
Installing Trim: A Beginner’s Guide
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A quick Remodelaholic note: Before your pick up the perfect trim and start cutting, be sure to practice on an inexpensive piece of molding (or scrap) until you have an understanding of how the angles will work. Jenny recommends some resources below, so read up, watch some videos, and practice, practice, practice!
When I first opened the instruction manual for a compound miter saw, all I saw were warnings about the appendages one could lose if the saw was used improperly. I was so frightened and so intimidated that three months went by before I tried to use the saw again.
Unfortunately, power tool manuals are written for people who already know how to use the tools, not for DIY newbies like me. A manual won’t tell you the basics like how to release the blade lock. (It took me nearly an hour just to figure out how to do that!).
1. Research How to Install Trim
2. Create a Work Space
3. Acquire Tools and Supplies
- A Compound miter saw (a sliding compound miter saw is ideal, but a 12″ regular one will work just fine). I used a Dewalt.
- 18-gauge brad nailer (for shadow boxes) and 16-gauge finish nailer (for crown molding) and an air compressor. I bought them as a 3-tool Combo Kit and have been very happy with it.
- Brad nails and finish nails
- A ShopVac to clean up all the saw dust you’re going to generate. I found an 8-gallon wet/dry ShopVac at Costco.
- A 24″ level and 9″ torpedo level
- Measuring tape
- Multi-purpose protractor
- Pencil
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Sponge
- Caulk. After trying several, this DAP caulk is my favorite.
- Caulk Gun
- A crown molding chart that tells you what degrees to set your saw for cutting angles. I used the extensive chart available in the book Crown Molding & Trim: Install it Like a Pro, but I learned all the practical knowledge I needed for cutting crown molding on pp. 128-137 of the book Trim Complete, which has excellent pictures to accompany the clear instructions.
- A bag of pre-cut trim scraps labeled with their angles. I cut several different pieces of scrap trim (the ogee molding for shadow boxes and the chair rail molding) in increments by degree to use for figuring out angles. I preferred to use a protractor to measure angles for crown molding, but found that for chair rail and shadow boxes, it was faster to use my scrap trim samples. For example, I cut pieces of scrap chair rail at 15-degrees, 18-degrees, 20-degrees, 25-degrees, etc. Then, when I came across a corner where two walls meet, I’d hold up two pieces of my scrap trim (cut at different angles) until I found the 2 angles that came together for the best fit. That’s how I knew what angles to cut each piece of trim.
- The BuildCalc app and This Is Carpentry’s tutorial on how to use it. This app saved me all kinds of headaches when designing the shadow boxes. I simply measured the wall and figured out how many shadow boxes I wanted there to be and then entered the numbers into the app to find out the spacing.
- Trim Wood
- Ladder or tall step stool
4. Plan Out Every Detail
To come up with a design for my trim work, I browsed sites like Houzz and Pinterest for ideas.
(Remodelaholic note: We also have a post here with lots of wainscoting styles.)
Once I decided what I wanted to do, I measured all the walls and calculated how much wood I would need.
Word to the wise, give yourself plenty of overage. You won’t be able to use the entirety of every piece of trim and you will certainly make mistakes.
If you’ll be undertaking a large, multi-room project like I did, I recommend doing a small room first to get a feel for how much wood you’ll really need (it will be more than the exact measurements) and for how much time it takes.
The lumber yard also delivered (for a fee), which, given the size of my project, was enormously helpful. Store the wood indoors where you’ll be installing it and give it 3 or 4 days at room temperature before using it.
5. Draw on your walls.
I drew every last piece of trim on my wall before making any cuts or nailing anything in place. It’s a lot easier to make adjustments with pencil drawings than with wood.
I measured from the floor to the top of my chair rail molding, making a mark on the wall about every 18 inches. I then used my level to draw a straight horizontal line connecting all the marks so I would know exactly where to place the trim.
Same thing for shadow boxes. I measured then marked where they would go and used my level to draw straight lines connecting all the markings. Also, when I drew the lines, I measured them right then and wrote the measurements on the walls (I double-checked the measurements before cutting any wood.)
6. Nailing
I found that if I put a nail at each corner (not too close to the edge, though, or you’ll risk splitting the wood) and about every 8 to 10 inches, that was plenty.
7. Finishing
- Nail holes. Use wood filler, not caulk to fill your nail holes. Use a light hand with the wood filler as you’ll have to sand whatever dries on your trim. I suggest using a lightly-damp rag to wipe over newly-filled nail holes to minimize sanding later on.
- Sanding. Sanding sponges are great for carved moldings and most trim work with minimal wood filler to be sanded.
- Caulk. It will feel like you’ve caulked miles of seams, but do it! It will give you that seamless look where the wood appears to just grow out of the wall. As mentioned above, this is my favorite caulk (I tried several different kinds over the course of my project). Buy by the case to save money. You’ll use a ton of the stuff!
Get tips for caulking like a pro here.
I put up hundreds of feet of trim: chair rail, crown molding, and dozens of shadow boxes.
(The shelves and mantel around the fireplace in the family room were built by a carpenter, not me).
I did every last bit of the job entirely by myself. I had a general contractor come by to take a look at all of the trim work I did. He told me that if I’d hired him to do the work, he would have charged me at least $10,000. The wood for my entire project cost me about $1,500.
Paint colors are Benjamin Moore White Dove (white) and Restoration Hardware Silver Sage (light blue).
With Sherwin Williams Naval for the dark navy blue
I hired someone to paint it all after I finished installing trim.
Thank you so much for sharing your tips and your gorgeous home with us, Jenny!
Also check out:
- Jenny’s Kitchen Transformation
- 25+ Wainscoting Styles
- Tips for Caulking
- How to Install Board and Batten
- Installing Custom Wood Pre-Hung Doors | Basement Remodel
Please pin this for future reference!
Originally published 07.07.2015 // Updated 04.14.2021
Very kind of you! Thank you! The toilet is “Kohler Memoirs Comfort-Height Elongated 2-piece toilet in white.” The pedestal sink is “Kohler Memoirs Pedestal Bathroom Sink in white.” I looked on the mirror for a brand name, but couldn’t find one. I do, however, remember that I purchased the mirror at Home Depot. Good luck!
Thank you!!!
I absolutely love your work. I really hope that this message finds you well. I know that this is off topic but I was wondering what kind of flooring you have?
Thank you! I hope you are well, too. My flooring is Home Depot “Home Legend” hand-scraped engineered hardwood flooring in Walnut Java. Our floors were installed by the previous owners and I have to say that while I love the look of them, they are very, very hard to keep clean because they’re so dark—-the smallest crumb and ittiest bit of dust is readily visible. And because of the hand scraped finish, which, again, I adore the look of, I run in to this problem where the raised portion of the boards get a lot more wear and tear than the recessed portion of the boards which gives the floors this visually uneven appearance. That’s mostly an issue in the kitchen and hallway, though, which are high traffic areas. The flooring in our upstairs hallway and living room and dining room don’t have that problem because those are low-traffic areas. We had real hardwood floors on the entire main level of our previous home and I have to say that engineered wood holds up a lot better than hardwood (ie. our engineered wood floors don’t scratch and dent as easily as our real hardwood floors did). The disadvantage is that engineered wood floors can’t be sanded down and re-finished like real hardwood floors can. As long as you’ve got extra engineered wood boards in the style and color as the original, though, you can replace individual boards as needed.
Where did you get the couch? Brand? It is exactly what I’m looking for in my space. Thanks in advance.
Hi, there! The couch is from Haverty’s. You can customize the configuration as there are several different sectional pieces to choose from. It’s called the “Amalfi” sectional. Ours is the color “peat.”
First – I think it’s totally awesome that you’re still answering comments on this post over a year later from the original post! I laughed when I read this post because it’s been almost two months since I bought my miter saw for my trim project in my entry way that I haven’t started yet and it’s exactly because of what you mention above – I read the directions and am too scared to use it!!!! I am so happy that I came across this post as you’ve inspired me to get back on the horse again! I’m dusting off my bookmarked tutorials, have ordered the books you recommended and am going to start dedicating some time to practicing with my miter saw and getting over my jitters. Thanks so much for the inspiration – I really appreciate it!!!
Awwww. That’s really sweet of you to take the time to write such a positive message. Thank you! And best of luck to you on the projects ahead!
Hi,
Amazing work! Found this on Pinterest and I’ll definitely be issuing your tips as I tackle my own wainscoting project in a few weeks. Do you recommend painting after installing the trim or painting before installing and just doing touch ups where the nail holes are? I can’t seem to get a solid answer on this.
Thanks
Hey, there, Jamille! Thanks! I definitely recommend painting after the installation/caulking/nail-hole-plugging. The paint provides a beautiful finish coat that creates a seamless look for your trim. The paint ties it all together and makes it look as though the trim grew right out of the wall and has always belonged there.
I love the wainscoting in the hallway. I am going to do my hallway and foyer. My question is when painting the boxes with semi gloss enamel, would it be ok to just paint the entire wall wainscoting and all with the enamel paint? I will be putting the boxes on Sheetrock.
Thanks so much for you suggestions.
Hi, Mickey! Good luck with your hallway and foyer! Trim makes such a difference! I recommend painting the trim and the wall behind it with the same kind of paint. So, if you’re using semi-gloss on your trim work, then yes, paint the wall under the trim with semi-gloss, too.
How did you fill the crack in each corner of the shadow box? Thanks!
Hi, there! I used wood filler—-the same stuff you use for patching nail holes.
So beautiful!! I have been wanting to tackle a project just like this since I moved into my house 5 years ago… but past failures with my mitre saw have stopped me! YOU are my INSPIRATION!! A few questions: Were you able to hang the long pieces by yourself or did you engage the help of another body? If so, how did you do the 12 foot pieces? Also, did you use wood or the pre-primed composite trim stuff – (I cant remember what its called). Also, did you paint your ceilings the same color blue/grey? What color are your ceilings? Also, how did you decide which walls to do chair rail on, and which ones to do shadow boxes higher or to the ceiling? Is there a rule of thumb or do you just have an eye for it? Thank you for the inspiration!
Hi, Michele! Thank you! I did hang the long pieces by myself, but I would recommend asking for help, if available. I improvised in a number of different ways—for example, by propping up one end with a ladder while I nailed the opposite end, but you can purchase tools that aid in the installation of trim, too. In my adventures with trim, I have sometimes used the composite trim and other times used wood. I can’t tell the difference once it’s installed and painted. My ceilings are the same color as all of my trim work—Benjamine Moore White Dove. I don’t know of a rule for determining where to do shadow boxes and where not to. I just went with what I liked. Best of luck to you!
Hi, I just wanted to say how beautiful all your trim work and your home is! I’ve been wanting to put up wainscoting in my home since we moved in a year ago and you’ve inspired me to finally do it. Also, I think I have the same exact pottery barn rug in my living room! May I ask where you purchased your curtains that you have in the room with the large sectional? I’ve been hunting for curtains and the ones you have go perfectly with the area rug. Thanks!
Thank you, Jenn! I purchased my curtains about 6 years ago on clearance from West Elm. I, too, spent hours searching all over trying to find some that would match with my rug. Sorry not to be of more help. Good luck in your search!
This is so inspiring. I can’t stop looking at it. Thank you for sharing and especially that you were so far along in your pregnancy when you started it. Wow. That is inspiring. So maybe, just maybe, I who am not pregnant but still have a lot on my plate with taking care of my kids can do something at least small like wainscot my bathroom. : )
Thank you, Marilyn! I, too, was inspired by what I had seen other busy Moms do. I don’t know that it would have occurred to me to take on this type of project if I hadn’t seen that others had been able to do it. You can do it! Good luck!
Jenny! Amazing job! God has obviously blessed your socks off with mad talent! This post was shared on Facebook and I and a few people were wondering how we can follow you??? Thanks a trillion!
Oh, my goodness, but you’re awfully kind! Thank you! I have 4 small children at home right now, so my projects are sporadic at best. I don’t know that I’d be all that interesting to follow! But all of my Remodelaholic posts can be found at https://www.remodelaholic.com/author/jenny-mcarthur/ and I have an Instagram account where I post just my projects (everything from baking to decorating to renovating) at https://www.instagram.com/turnip_greens_sweet_tea Thank you for your kind words. Enjoy the day!
This is absolutely STUNNING! I’ve wanted to do this to my home for so long, but I have textured walls. I don’t think it would look as nice to add wanescotting over texture. What would you recommend?
Wow , looks amazing …. how long did it take / how much start to finish to do the whole house including materials and contracting?, I have a 6000sq ft house im working on and its daunting as its huge
Hi,
I’m so glad you are still commenting on this old post. I just found this and was wondering what size trim was used for the picture frames for the walls? I’m having trouble deciding, and I have a tall entry way accent wall and doing a similar look.The size you picked looks really good.
I really enjoyed looking at your house makeover . You did a good job of bringing it all together. I’m wondering if you can tell me what color of paint you used in the the bathroom .
Thank you from Florida
Omg I absolutely love your home! I have the exact house! It is till brothers elkton model! I have been struggling so much to make it feel homey! I literally want to copy what you did. Is there anyway we can connect via emails? Also what length did you do for curtains in the family room and where did you get the hardware?
That looks phenomenal! I did some shadow box work in our home as well but definitely not as much as you. You go mama!
This might me a dumb question, but are your walls textured? I’ve been so nervous to do framing on my walls, thinking I have to sand down the texture? I mean it’s not thick and super bumpy texture. But I just thought it had to be smooth. As much framing as you did surely you didn’t sand your walls first. And if your walls are textured under all that high gloss white, you can’t tell in pictures. Your home is amazing.
OMG your house is beautiful! You did such a great job!
Would you mind sharing the navy blue pant name? I love it! Thankk you!
I love your livingroom flooring…my heart!!! My his and and I are buying a home that is almost 1400 sqaure feet 2 bedrooms 2 bath home eat in kitchen as well as formal diningroom. My qurstion is if we stain the floors similar to the color of your livingroom would light gray vinyl dining chairs with knock down periwinkle painted walls look good or should I use a in the middle gray stain and go with burgundy vinyl chairs and livingroom? The home is located in the country and I plan on incorporsting some if my personal favorites such as mountains snow and northern lights. Please advise and you did an amzing job on the trims.