The amazing Jenny is back today to show you more proof that, sometimes, the difference is in the details! You loved her white kitchen makeover, where she added small touches to give her kitchen a knock your socks off facelift — now you get to see more of her beautiful home! She did all of this new trim work herself, after teaching herself, and she’s here to share with you her tips and tricks for installing trim, plus plenty of beautiful before and afters — give her a BIG welcome back!
A Beginner’s Guide to Installing Trim
by reader Jenny
It took about 200 hours over almost 4 months. I started when I was 8 months pregnant and finished when my newborn was about 6 weeks old. I don’t recommend doing it that way. Really. Don’t. 🙂
I put up hundreds of feet of trim: chair rail, crown molding, and dozens of shadow boxes. (The shelves and mantel around the fireplace in the family room were built by a carpenter, not me).
I am self-taught and I did every last bit of the job entirely by myself. And, yes, I’m pretty darn proud of what I accomplished!
I had a general contractor come by to take a look at all of the trim work I did. He told me that if I’d hired him to do the work, he would have charged me at least $10,000.
I was fortunate to find a local lumber yard selling the crown molding, chair rail, and ogee molding (for the shadow boxes) that I needed at a cheaper price than the big box stores offer it. The trim wood for this project cost me about $1,500.
Paint colors are Benjamin Moore White Dove (white), Sherwin Williams Naval (dark navy blue), and Restoration Hardware Silver Sage (light blue). I hired someone to paint it all after I was done.
Jenny’s Tips for DIYing Wainscoting and Trim
A quick Remodelaholic note: Before your pick up the perfect trim and start cutting, be sure to practice on an inexpensive piece of molding (or scrap) until you have an understanding of how the angles will work. Jenny recommends some great resources below, so read up, watch some videos, and practice, practice, practice! Also, for your convenience, this post contains affiliate links, which allow us to continue providing you lots of DIY ideas at no cost to you. Learn more here.
When I first opened the instruction manual for a compound miter saw, all I saw were warnings about the appendages one could lose if the saw was used improperly. I was so frightened and so intimidated that three months went by before I tried to use the saw again. Unfortunately, power tool manuals are written for people who already know how to use the tools, not for DIY newbies like me. A manual won’t tell you the basics like how to release the blade lock. (It took me nearly an hour just to figure out how to do that!). But I stuck with it. I figured it out. And now, my miter saw is like an additional appendage to me and has yet to sever one!
To complete a large-scale trim project, I (not a professional, just a DIY-er) recommend the following:
1. Research
When I started my first trim project, I had no experience installing trim. Before I priced wood or considered what tools I would need or did anything else, I watched several YouTube tutorials. I searched under keyword terms like “how to” and “wainscoting” or “how to” and “crown molding.” This gave me an idea of what I was getting myself in to. It’s also how I learned to install trim (along with the help of the two books listed below).
2. Work Space
If at all possible, have a designated work space where your tools are organized and accessible and where there is sufficient room to work comfortably with long and unwieldy pieces of trim.
3. Tools
I found the following tools to be absolutely necessary for my large-scale trim project. Rent, borrow or buy, but make sure you have them.
(These tools represent a significant investment. If you’re doing a large enough project, it will be worth it to buy, but for a smaller project, rent or borrow.)
- A Compound miter saw (a sliding compound miter saw is ideal, but a 12″ regular one will work just fine). I have a Dewalt one similar to this model.
- 18-gauge brad nailer (for shadow boxes) and 16-gauge finish nailer (for crown molding) and an air compressor. I bought a kit like this one and have been very happy with it. (I used over 2,000 nails to complete my trim project. If I had used a hammer-and-nails instead of a nail gun, I’d still wouldn’t be finished!)
- A ShopVac. You are going to generate buckets and buckets of saw dust. A way to clean it all up is essential. Oh, and don’t forget a face mask to wear while you make your cuts—you don’t want to be breathing in all that dust! I found an 8-gallon wet/dry ShopVac at Costco for about $50.
- A 24″ level like this one and 9″ torpedo level like this one.
- Measuring tape
- Multi-purpose protractor. I have this one.
- Pencil
- Wood Filler
- Caulk
- Trim Wood
- Caulk Gun
- A crown molding chart that tells you what degrees to set your saw for cutting angles. I used the extensive chart available in this book, but I learned all the practical knowledge I needed for cutting crown molding on pp. 128-137 of this book, which has excellent pictures to accompany the clear instructions.
- A bag of pre-cut trim scraps. I cut several different pieces of scrap trim (the ogee molding for shadow boxes and the chair rail molding) in increments by degree to use for figuring out angles. I preferred to use a protractor to measure angles for crown molding, but found that for chair rail and shadow boxes, it was faster to use my scrap trim samples. For example, I might have pieces of scrap chair rail cut at 15-degrees, 18-degrees, 20-degrees, 25-degrees, etc. Then, when I came across a corner where two walls meet, I’d hold up pieces of my scrap trim (cut at different angles) until I found the 2 angles that came together for the best fit. That’s how I knew what angles to cut my trim.
- The BuildCalc app. This app saved me all kinds of headaches when designing the shadow boxes. I simply measured the wall and figured out how many shadow boxes I wanted there to be and then entered the numbers in to the app to find out the spacing. I used this online tutorial here to learn to use the app for planning shadow boxes.
4. Planning
Plan the trimwork you want. Some of the rooms in my home already had crown molding and chair rail, so I simply matched what was already there for the new trim work. I priced the wood I needed at Lowe’s and Home Depot and at my local lumber yards. I found I could get the best deal at a local lumber yard and ordered from there. The lumber yard also delivered (for a fee), which, given the size of my project, was enormously helpful. Store the wood indoors where you’ll be installing it and give it 3 or 4 days at room temperature before using it.
To come up with a design for the trim work, I browsed sites like Houzz and Pinterest for ideas. (Remodelaholic note: We also have a post here with lots of wainscoting styles.) Once I decided what I wanted to do, I measured all the walls and calculated how much wood I would need. Word to the wise, give yourself plenty of overage. You won’t be able to use the entirety of every piece of trim and you will certainly make mistakes. If you’ll be undertaking a large, multi-room project like I did, I recommend doing a small room first to get a feel for how much wood you’ll really need (it will be more than the exact measurements) and for how much time it takes.
5. Draw on your walls.
I drew every last piece of trim on my wall before making any cuts or nailing anything in place. I measured from the floor to the top of my chair rail molding, making a mark on the wall about every 18 inches. I then used my level to draw a straight line connecting all the marks so I would know exactly how to line up my trim when it came time to attach it to the wall. Same thing for shadow boxes. I marked where they would go and then used my level to draw straight lines connecting all the markings, making a road map of where everything would go. It’s a lot easier to make adjustments with pencil drawings than with wood. And, it made it easier for me when it came time to attach the wood because I could just line it up with the pencil markings (I still double-checked that the trim piece was straight using a level, at the time of installation). The pencil lines are easy to measure, too, when it comes time to take the measurements for making cuts. When I drew the lines, I measured them right then and there and wrote the measurements on the walls.
6. Nailing
When it comes time to nail, remember you’ll have to fill each and every nail hole with wood filler when you’re done, so don’t go crazy, but you also want your trim to be stable and secure. I found that if I put a nail at each corner (not too close to the edge, though, or you’ll risk splitting the wood) and about every 8 to 10 inches, that was plenty.
7. Finishing
The finish work (wood filling, sanding, and caulking) seemed to take as long as the measuring, cutting, and nailing, but it’s the finish work that really makes your trim look lovely. Use a light hand with the wood filler as you’ll have to sand whatever dries on your trim. (I used a lightly-damp rag to wipe over where I filled holes to minimize sanding later on.) Caulk! Caulk! Caulk! It will give you that seamless look where the wood appears to just grow out of the wall. Use wood filler, not caulk to fill your nail holes. This is my favorite caulk (I tried several different kinds over the course of my project). Buy by the case to save money. You’ll use a ton of the stuff! (Remodelaholic note: get tips for caulking here.)
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Thank you so much for sharing your tips and your gorgeous home with us, Jenny!
Remodelaholics, leave your dropped jaws 😉 and all that love, plus any questions you might have for Jenny in the comments!
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We love hearing from fellow Remodelaholics, so let us know what you like about this and leave any questions below in the comments. If you've followed a tutorial or been inspired by something you've seen here, we'd love to see pictures! Submit pictures here or by messaging us over on Facebook.
Very kind of you! Thank you! The toilet is “Kohler Memoirs Comfort-Height Elongated 2-piece toilet in white.” The pedestal sink is “Kohler Memoirs Pedestal Bathroom Sink in white.” I looked on the mirror for a brand name, but couldn’t find one. I do, however, remember that I purchased the mirror at Home Depot. Good luck!
Thank you!!!
I absolutely love your work. I really hope that this message finds you well. I know that this is off topic but I was wondering what kind of flooring you have?
Thank you! I hope you are well, too. My flooring is Home Depot “Home Legend” hand-scraped engineered hardwood flooring in Walnut Java. Our floors were installed by the previous owners and I have to say that while I love the look of them, they are very, very hard to keep clean because they’re so dark—-the smallest crumb and ittiest bit of dust is readily visible. And because of the hand scraped finish, which, again, I adore the look of, I run in to this problem where the raised portion of the boards get a lot more wear and tear than the recessed portion of the boards which gives the floors this visually uneven appearance. That’s mostly an issue in the kitchen and hallway, though, which are high traffic areas. The flooring in our upstairs hallway and living room and dining room don’t have that problem because those are low-traffic areas. We had real hardwood floors on the entire main level of our previous home and I have to say that engineered wood holds up a lot better than hardwood (ie. our engineered wood floors don’t scratch and dent as easily as our real hardwood floors did). The disadvantage is that engineered wood floors can’t be sanded down and re-finished like real hardwood floors can. As long as you’ve got extra engineered wood boards in the style and color as the original, though, you can replace individual boards as needed.
Where did you get the couch? Brand? It is exactly what I’m looking for in my space. Thanks in advance.
Hi, there! The couch is from Haverty’s. You can customize the configuration as there are several different sectional pieces to choose from. It’s called the “Amalfi” sectional. Ours is the color “peat.”
First – I think it’s totally awesome that you’re still answering comments on this post over a year later from the original post! I laughed when I read this post because it’s been almost two months since I bought my miter saw for my trim project in my entry way that I haven’t started yet and it’s exactly because of what you mention above – I read the directions and am too scared to use it!!!! I am so happy that I came across this post as you’ve inspired me to get back on the horse again! I’m dusting off my bookmarked tutorials, have ordered the books you recommended and am going to start dedicating some time to practicing with my miter saw and getting over my jitters. Thanks so much for the inspiration – I really appreciate it!!!
Awwww. That’s really sweet of you to take the time to write such a positive message. Thank you! And best of luck to you on the projects ahead!
Hi,
Amazing work! Found this on Pinterest and I’ll definitely be issuing your tips as I tackle my own wainscoting project in a few weeks. Do you recommend painting after installing the trim or painting before installing and just doing touch ups where the nail holes are? I can’t seem to get a solid answer on this.
Thanks
Hey, there, Jamille! Thanks! I definitely recommend painting after the installation/caulking/nail-hole-plugging. The paint provides a beautiful finish coat that creates a seamless look for your trim. The paint ties it all together and makes it look as though the trim grew right out of the wall and has always belonged there.
I love the wainscoting in the hallway. I am going to do my hallway and foyer. My question is when painting the boxes with semi gloss enamel, would it be ok to just paint the entire wall wainscoting and all with the enamel paint? I will be putting the boxes on Sheetrock.
Thanks so much for you suggestions.
Hi, Mickey! Good luck with your hallway and foyer! Trim makes such a difference! I recommend painting the trim and the wall behind it with the same kind of paint. So, if you’re using semi-gloss on your trim work, then yes, paint the wall under the trim with semi-gloss, too.
How did you fill the crack in each corner of the shadow box? Thanks!
Hi, there! I used wood filler—-the same stuff you use for patching nail holes.
So beautiful!! I have been wanting to tackle a project just like this since I moved into my house 5 years ago… but past failures with my mitre saw have stopped me! YOU are my INSPIRATION!! A few questions: Were you able to hang the long pieces by yourself or did you engage the help of another body? If so, how did you do the 12 foot pieces? Also, did you use wood or the pre-primed composite trim stuff – (I cant remember what its called). Also, did you paint your ceilings the same color blue/grey? What color are your ceilings? Also, how did you decide which walls to do chair rail on, and which ones to do shadow boxes higher or to the ceiling? Is there a rule of thumb or do you just have an eye for it? Thank you for the inspiration!
Hi, Michele! Thank you! I did hang the long pieces by myself, but I would recommend asking for help, if available. I improvised in a number of different ways—for example, by propping up one end with a ladder while I nailed the opposite end, but you can purchase tools that aid in the installation of trim, too. In my adventures with trim, I have sometimes used the composite trim and other times used wood. I can’t tell the difference once it’s installed and painted. My ceilings are the same color as all of my trim work—Benjamine Moore White Dove. I don’t know of a rule for determining where to do shadow boxes and where not to. I just went with what I liked. Best of luck to you!
Hi, I just wanted to say how beautiful all your trim work and your home is! I’ve been wanting to put up wainscoting in my home since we moved in a year ago and you’ve inspired me to finally do it. Also, I think I have the same exact pottery barn rug in my living room! May I ask where you purchased your curtains that you have in the room with the large sectional? I’ve been hunting for curtains and the ones you have go perfectly with the area rug. Thanks!
Thank you, Jenn! I purchased my curtains about 6 years ago on clearance from West Elm. I, too, spent hours searching all over trying to find some that would match with my rug. Sorry not to be of more help. Good luck in your search!
This is so inspiring. I can’t stop looking at it. Thank you for sharing and especially that you were so far along in your pregnancy when you started it. Wow. That is inspiring. So maybe, just maybe, I who am not pregnant but still have a lot on my plate with taking care of my kids can do something at least small like wainscot my bathroom. : )
Thank you, Marilyn! I, too, was inspired by what I had seen other busy Moms do. I don’t know that it would have occurred to me to take on this type of project if I hadn’t seen that others had been able to do it. You can do it! Good luck!
Jenny! Amazing job! God has obviously blessed your socks off with mad talent! This post was shared on Facebook and I and a few people were wondering how we can follow you??? Thanks a trillion!
Oh, my goodness, but you’re awfully kind! Thank you! I have 4 small children at home right now, so my projects are sporadic at best. I don’t know that I’d be all that interesting to follow! But all of my Remodelaholic posts can be found at https://www.remodelaholic.com/author/jenny-mcarthur/ and I have an Instagram account where I post just my projects (everything from baking to decorating to renovating) at https://www.instagram.com/turnip_greens_sweet_tea Thank you for your kind words. Enjoy the day!
This is absolutely STUNNING! I’ve wanted to do this to my home for so long, but I have textured walls. I don’t think it would look as nice to add wanescotting over texture. What would you recommend?
Wow , looks amazing …. how long did it take / how much start to finish to do the whole house including materials and contracting?, I have a 6000sq ft house im working on and its daunting as its huge
Hi,
I’m so glad you are still commenting on this old post. I just found this and was wondering what size trim was used for the picture frames for the walls? I’m having trouble deciding, and I have a tall entry way accent wall and doing a similar look.The size you picked looks really good.
I really enjoyed looking at your house makeover . You did a good job of bringing it all together. I’m wondering if you can tell me what color of paint you used in the the bathroom .
Thank you from Florida
Omg I absolutely love your home! I have the exact house! It is till brothers elkton model! I have been struggling so much to make it feel homey! I literally want to copy what you did. Is there anyway we can connect via emails? Also what length did you do for curtains in the family room and where did you get the hardware?
That looks phenomenal! I did some shadow box work in our home as well but definitely not as much as you. You go mama!
This might me a dumb question, but are your walls textured? I’ve been so nervous to do framing on my walls, thinking I have to sand down the texture? I mean it’s not thick and super bumpy texture. But I just thought it had to be smooth. As much framing as you did surely you didn’t sand your walls first. And if your walls are textured under all that high gloss white, you can’t tell in pictures. Your home is amazing.