Hi, it’s Mindi from My Love 2 Create. A few months ago I shared my Antique Crate. I firmly believe you can never have enough crates, I love how useful and cute they are!
Today I am excited to share my Long Hexagon Tray. Yes, I am obsessed with trays too…the struggle is real.
See what I mean?! This tray is so pretty and unique and it adds such charm, I kind of love it.
Plus could be used in any room in the house. A perfect decor accent or place to keep things organized.
See also: Why You Should Use Trays in Your Home Decor and 8 Practical Uses for Trays Around The House
How to Make a Long Hexagon Tray
Click here to get the free printable building plan from Mylove2create
Be sure to read through full tutorial before making cuts. This post contains affiliate links. Read our full disclosure here.
Supplies:
- 2- 1” x 2” x 8′ boards
- Satin or paint
- Sand paper
- Wood glue
- Nail gun and finish nails
- Bar clamps
- Miter Saw
Cut List:
- 2- 1×2’s @ 18 1/2” long point to long point ends NOT parallel cut at 30 degrees (tray bottom)
- 2- 1×2’s @ 16 3/4” long point to long point ends NOT parallel cut at 30 degrees (tray bottom)
- 2- 1×2’s @ 15” long point to long point ends NOT parallel cut at 30 degrees (tray bottom)
- 4- 1×2’s @ 6 1/8” long point to long point ends NOT parallel cut at 30 degrees standing wood on skinny end to cut (short tray sides)
- 2- 1×2’s @ 14 1/8” long point to long point ends NOT parallel cut at 30 degrees standing wood on skinny end to cut (long tray sides)
This photo is for a cutting reference. Set your miter saw at 30 degrees (left). Cut your tray bottom pieces by laying the board on it’s thick side (top right). Cut the tray sides by laying your board on its thin side (bottom right).
Step 1: Cut Tray Bottom Pieces.
Start by cutting the two middle tray bottom pieces (top left) at 18 1/2” long point to long point ends NOT parallel cut at 30 degrees and make sure they are the same size.
You can cut the next two by using the measurements (16 3/4”) or you can use the first pieces to mark and cut them (top right photo above). Either way works, you just want to make sure they line up. I personally like to measure and cut as I go, this way I can check each cut for accuracy by fitting it to the other boards.
Finish by cutting the outer bottom pieces at 15” or measure and cut using the adjacent boards (bottom right).
Step 2: Glue and clamp tray bottom boards together.
You will notice in later photos that I didn’t do this step before I cut my tray sides, but in hind site I wish I would have, I had to adjust my tray sides slightly because after I glued my bottom pieces they were a tighter fit and it made a slight difference in my sides so I ended up trimming them down to fit again. Save yourself some time and do as I say not as I did. 🙂
So…Glue your bottom boards together with wood glue and then clamp them using bar clamps while the wood dries. You can wipe off the extra glue with a damp rag after you clamp. If you are staining make sure to do this, because dried on glue does not take the stain.
Once the glue is dry remove the clamps and sand the tray bottom smooth.
Step 3: Measure and Cut your Tray Sides.
You can use the measurements in the cut list or you can measure and mark your tray sides to your bottom tray piece (after it is glued together) as you go.
I like to mark and cut as I go, it is up to you. Your short ends should line up with the ends of the tray bottom.
Once you have one of the short pieces cut you can use it to cut the other three to the same size. I set the cut board on top and make sure the ends are flush (top left), then I mark the board to be cut on the other side (top right). In the bottom photo you can see I place the blade right on the edge of my marked line and cut.
Cut the long sides the same way. Double check to make sure they fit to the tray bottom by placing them around it.
Step 4: Sand tray sides
Sand the tray sides before attaching them to the tray bottom.
Step 5: Attach tray sides to the bottom.
Using wood glue attach each tray side one at a time and work your way around until all pieces are in place.
Nail through the lower half of the sides into the tray bottom with 2” finish nails. Once you have attached all the sides, go back with 1 1/4” finish nails and secure the mitered corners on each side for extra strength.
You can check out my Triangle Hexagon Tray for even more tips and tricks on building this shape tray.
Step 6: Finish and Enjoy!
Fill all holes with wood filler, sand smooth, and stain or paint your tray as you desire!
Use a pre-wood conditioner before staining on soft woods like pine. I stained my tray with Rustoleum’s Kona. I had started with a lighter stain, but didn’t love it so I finished it off with the dark and it was just what I wanted!
I finished with 3 coats of poly sanding with 320 grit between coats 1 and 2 to make it nice and smooth.
It is nice and pretty!
The perfect size for holding small items in your home.
It would look so great on dresser to catch your jewelry at night…
Or put it in the kitchen for holding flowers!
Trays can add that perfect touch to any decor item.
It also looks great in the living room sitting on my Reclaimed Wood Coffee Table!
Plus it would be a perfect place to hold remotes, if you are prone to loosing them…
How about putting it in the bathroom to hold lotions, soaps, and perfumes?! So many fabulous ideas!
Now you want to build one don’t you?! I have several other Tray ideas with full tutorials on my blog for more ideas!
Hugs,
Mindi
More DIY trays
rustic centerpiece table runner tray
DIY breakfast tray, 3 ways + patterned agate printable
industrial tiered metal tray organizer
plus Where and Why and Which: Using Trays in Your Home Decorating
We love hearing from fellow Remodelaholics, so let us know what you like about this and leave any questions below in the comments. If you've followed a tutorial or been inspired by something you've seen here, we'd love to see pictures! Submit pictures here or by messaging us over on Facebook.
Wowza, that is beautiful! Thanks for the instructions. 🙂 What kind of wood did you use? It stained perfectly!
Thank you so much Mariele! I actually just used pine furring strips (1×2 boards) for this project! The best way to get a good stain on pine is to use a pre-wood conditioner before you stain! Hopefully that helps! Thanks again!
Those are some smooth furring strips! 🙂 Thanks for getting back to me so soon. I love stained pine, but the “lines” and waves in it never come out so distinct… I’ll try some furring strips next time! Have a great day. <3