Hello again, it's Amy from Hertoolbelt back to share another build project. At my house, we have differing styles and tastes. My husband likes the sleek clean modern looks and vibes, and I naturally gravitate towards traditional, and I kind of love Victorian and Craftsman. I know, so old school, but I can't help it. I am always on the look out to add a little of his style into our house. Recently an amazing photographer Jennifer Chong posted this uber modern plant stand, originally designed by Trey Jones, on her blog from the Broadcast Coffee in Seattle, Wa. Isn't it awesome, yet simple! We'll show you how to build our version, or you can contact Trey to purchase one from him.
Cassity, with her mad Photoshop skills, thought it would be cool to add some extra detail to the cube. Check out these fun options:
In this tutorial we will build the basic cube plant stand, then add each version of the fretwork. Add as much of the fretwork as you'd like for the look you want. (Also Mandi at Vintage Revivals has posted a tutorial of her version that you can check out here.)
Build a Modern Cube Plant Stand
Project Cost: $8.96
- 12″ Terra Cotta Pot – $6.78
- 1″ x 4″ x 8′ Furring strip (pine board) – $2.18
- 12″ Terra Cotta Pot
- 1 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ furring strip (actual 3/4″ x 3 1/2″) – If you plan to do fretwork around the entire cube, you may want to grab an extra furring strip board.
- wood glue
- 1 1/4″ – 1 1/2″ brad nails
- wood filler (optional)
(Note: When picking your furring strip, try and pick the straightest board possible.)
Materials Note: If you don't have the tools to rip the furring strip into 3/4 inch strips, you can use 3/4″ square dowels, instead. I chose to cut down a 1×4 because it is less expensive, so if you choose dowels, it will just cost more. You can use 1″ square dowels too, just make sure the inside square measurement is about 11 1/2″ x 11 1/2″. You can adjust the height to whatever you want to.
Option 1: Build the cube
Rip the 1×4 into 3/4″ strips, each strip will be 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 8′. Before cutting the strips, you may have to trim the edges of the furring strips to get a straight edge.
Cut 8 – 13″ long pieces with 45 deg angles on each end, see diagram below.
Add a little glue to the 45 deg joints and glue 4 of the pieces to make a square. Add a couple of brad nails to each joint to help hold it together. Repeat for the other 4 pieces. You will have 2 – 13″ x 13″ squares. The 45 deg cuts are a little tedious to make, but will help the stand be more sturdy, since the joints will be resting on the vertical supports.
Cut 4 pieces that are 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 11 1/2″. These are the vertical supports.
Add a little wood glue to the tops of each vertical support, place a 13″ square on top of the 4 vertical supports. Line up the vertical supports with the outside corners of the square and nail into place. Flip the partial cube over and add glue to the bottom (now top) of the vertical supports. Nail into place the other 13″ square.
Now you have a 13″ x 13″ x 13″ cube.
If you have a terra cotta pot, place it in the cube while the glue is drying. Wood has stresses, and sometimes it goes where you don't want it to 🙂 Adding the pot will help give the plant stand a little weight to dry straight. If the original is the look you're going for, then you are done. Add wood filler to the cracks and nail holes if you want, then sand smooth.
Option 2: Add X fretwork
Now we'll add the X fretwork to the cube. The measurements for all of the fretwork are for reference only, you'll need to cut your pieces to fit.
Cut a 3/4″ x 3/4″ x about 16 1/4″ piece. Mark the center line at one end, cut 45 deg angles off from the center to make a point. Repeat for the other end. Dry fit into the cube, trim as needed. Apply glue to the each 45 deg angles and set into the cube. The fretwork is not structural, so brad nails are not necessary, but can be added if needed.
Cut 2 pieces that are 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 7 3/4″. Mark the center line of one end on each piece. Cut 45 deg angles off the marked center lines. Dry fit and trim as necessary. Glue the 2 pieces into the cube, centering on the first diagonal piece.
The front X is complete. If you want, repeat for the other 3 sides of the cube.
Option 3: Half fretwork
Cut 2 pieces of 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 5 7/16″ and 2 pieces of 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 2 3/4″. Cut a 45 deg angle on 1 end of each piece. Measure down approximately 1 15/16″ from the X and glue a 5 7/16″ piece. Measure down another 1 15/16″ and glue a 2 3/4″ piece. Repeat of the opposite triangle of the X. Use brad nails as needed.
The front half fretwork is complete. If you want, repeat for the other 3 sides of the cube.
Option 4: Full fretwork
Cut 2 pieces of 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 5 7/16″ and 2 pieces of 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 2 3/4″. Cut a 45 deg angle on 1 end of each piece. Measure approximately 1 15/16″ from the X and glue a 5 7/16″ piece. Measure down another 1 15/16″ and glue a 2 3/4″ piece. Repeat of the opposite triangle of the X. Use brad nails as needed.
The front full fretwork is complete. If you want, repeat for the other 3 sides of the cube.
Allow all of the glue to completely dry. If desired, add wood filler to the nail holes and any gaps and allow to dry. Lightly sand the wood filler and the wood until smooth. Leave the wood natural for the look in the picture, or add stain or paint for a custom look for your home.
I think this cube would make a cute decorative crate, just add a bottom!
Optional Wood Bottom
The terra cotta pot in the picture has a fun wooden cap on the bottom. I'm not 100% certain, but I believe it's a piece of wood coped out to make a bowl, and probably lined with plastic to catch excess water.
This is one idea of how to recreate it. Cut out 2 circles of wood that are 7 1/2″ diameter. In one of the circles drill a 1/4″ hole, thru the center. In the other circle, cut out a 4 1/2″ circle to make a donut. The 4 1/2″ size is about the same diameter of the bottom of a cool whip bowl. You can take an old cool whip bowl and cut the bottom off leaving about 3/4″ side to place in the center to catch excess water. Drill a 1/4″ hole thru the center of the cool whip bowl. (The 4 1/2″ size can be changed to whatever sized plastic container that you want to use.)
Glue the 2 circles together and allow the wood glue to dry. Once the glue is dry, sand around the edges to make a smooth circle.
Cut a small block, approximately 3/4″ x 1/2″ x 2″ and drill a 1/4″ hole thru the middle. This will be like a washer and sit on the inside of the terra cotta pot to hold the wood end on.
Get a 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ -3″ bolt with a nut. Place the wood block in the bottom of the terra cotta pot, it will cover some of the hole, but should allow for drainage. Thread the bolt thru the wooden block, terra cotta pot hole, plastic bowl and the wooden pot cap, secure the bolt with a nut. Add some silicone in the wood cap hole if the water leaks out.
Try mixing and matching with another style, like this modern plant stand: