Let me introduce myself. I am Marci and I have recently entered the blogging world with Timber and Lace.
In October my husband and I and our three kids moved into the house we built on five acres of land just minutes outside of our hometown. We were our very own contractor, designer, and tradesman (for a lot but not all of the work), and completed the construction in 7 months. After showing some photos of my kitchen, Cassity asked if I would share the details on how I designed it. I was thrilled she asked. Who doesn’t enjoy sharing the details of their successes. And yes, I consider my kitchen in every aspect a success. So thank you Cassity for this opportunity.
I then took the dimensions off our blueprint and started working on the lay-out. I started with the back wall as I knew this is what the whole kitchen centered on and would essentially be the feature wall. My drawings are not completely to scale but enough to get the general dimensions. I then researched online what standard cabinet sizes are so that I could piece together my cabinets.
Base Cabinets are a standard 24″ deep and 34 1/2″ high. This allows for a typical 4 1/2″ toe kick and allows up to 1 1/2″ counter top for a finished counter height of 36″. The width of stock cabinets go up in increments of 3″ (9″,12″,15″ up to 36″) Standard drawer heights are 6″, 9″ and 12″.
Upper Cabinets are a standard 12″ deep and 30″, 36″, or 42″ tall. Stacked uppers also go up in increments of 3″ from 12″ up to 27″
The standard height between the base cabinet (including the counter top) and the upper cabinets is 18″.
Therefore I already had a few dimensions nailed down. I wanted to go all the way to the ceiling with the cabinets. My ceiling heights are 9 ft or 108″. Minus 36″ for base cabinets plus counter leaves 72″. Plus 18″ for spacing leaves 54″ for upper cabinets. I decided I want 12″ stacked uppers at the very top and at least a 3″ crown molding. That leaves me with 39″. Which limits me to the 36″ upper cabinet height. What to do with the extra 3″? I added a trim piece between the upper cabinets and the stacked uppers so that the doors would not rub while opening and closing. This took 3/4″. I also allowed for a little more room between the base cabinets and upper cabinets (I am tall so height was not an issue for me) and then had about 1″ breathing room for a base plate for the crown to be nailed to in case the ceiling was not 100% level.
That determined my heights for this wall. Now for the widths. I had selected a 36″ gas cook top and I wanted it centered on this wall so that gave me 36″ pot drawers below both 12″ in height, with 6″ false drawer front to allow for electrical cords, and 4 1/2″ toe kick which gave me my 34 1/2. One of my wishes was to not feel closed in while cooking on the stove so I added a 9″ pull out spice cupboard to each side of my cook top giving me a 54″ cooking space which I also matched the range hood to above. To add a little dimension to this wall I bumped out the pot drawers and spice cabinets 3″ but did not actually make the cabinets deeper (cost savings). This just left a 3″ void behind this area that the counter top covered. Because of the angled wall joining this wall of cupboards I had to allow for 6″ on each side for the uppers and 12″ on each side on the base as dead space. I opted out of corner cabinets. My wall was 126″ minus 24″ (12″ on each side dead space) minus 54″ cook top bump out left me with 48″ divided by 2 (one for each side of the cook top gave me 24″ cabinets which is a standard. I decided to stay with the 12″, 12″, and 6″ drawer combination.
Make sure you gather at least 3 quotes when planning a kitchen because there can be a HUGE difference in prices.
You can view more details of my counter top and back splash selections here.