Who doesn’t love a rustic farmhouse dining table?
When I spotted this beautiful table made of reclaimed wood from old bridges in the Better Homes and Gardens magazine, it was love at first sight!
I couldn’t wait to fly over here from A Piece of Rainbow to share with you how easy it is to build this lovely dining table ourselves!
How to Build a Farmhouse Dining Table
Tools:
measuring tape , square, pencil, and safety glasses!!!
Kreg Jig, pocket hole screws, and drill
Miter Saw
Random Orbital Sander
Finishing stains and sealers of your choice
Cut List:
table legs :
4 – 4×4 @ 28 1/2” (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
aprons and braces :
2 – 2×4 @ 25″ (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)
2 – 2×4 @ 29″ (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)
3 – 2×4 @ 64”
tabletop boards:
7 – 2×6 @ 67″ (tabletop boards)
2 – 2×6 @ approx 38.5″ (measure and check to fit)
tabletop braces:
3 – 2×4 @ 27 1/2″
2 – 2×4 @ 24 1/2″
Please follow good practices to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of clutter or debris. Always use straight boards. And remember to check for square after each step!
Step 1:
Build two of the leg sets out of the 4x4s. The drawings below are showing the front and back side(with pocket holes) of each set of legs.
After cutting the 4x4s at 5 degree on the ends, join 2 of the legs together with 2×4 aprons at the top, and braces at the bottom. Use 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
The bottom brace is 3” above the floor level.
Once you get one built, use it as a measure to build the other so they match perfectly.
Step 2:
Attach the two sets of legs together with the longer aprons and center brace with 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Because our table legs are tapered in one direction only ( makes it so much easier!) these pieces all have square ends. So all three 2x4s measure the same length.
Step 3:
Build the tabletop with 2×4 braces screwed from the underside, and 1 1/2″ pocket holes and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the outer 4 pieces (colored orange here) .
Make sure to pre-drill 1 1/2″ pocket holes on the braces to attach the tabletop to the aprons in the next step.
Step 4:
Attach tabletop to the base using 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws through the 2x4s from the previous step.
Finishes:
Sand the table in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Remove all sanding residue and wipe it clean with damp cloth.
Now you can either paint it with your favorite paint colors, or finish it with oil or stain!
image source: Better Homes and Gardens
photos: Edmund Barr
image source: Better Homes and Gardens
photos: Edmund Barr
Not too difficult, right?
If you want to swing by and visit me, here are a few really fun home projects you might enjoy:
transfer images to wood & make gorgeous crates | stenciled wood floor mat with free template | coffee bean bag ottoman | 7 ways to make super effective, low cost and all natural wood stains
And our previous project here together: Make a pallet charging station!
Happy summer days to you all! See you in a few weeks!
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More farmhouse tables:
click on the image to see more details
Love this look and those dining chairs are fantastic. Nice job!
Love the way this table looks! I just made one of my own that has different legs, but a similar concept.
Actually your center brace and the longer side aprons cannot be the same length. The side aprons are attached to the 4×4 legs while the center brace is attached to the 2×4, which is set towards the middle of the 4×4.
Unless your going for the… growing outwards table I guess.