Re-using most of the wood I work with is very important to me, wood is a great material to work with – I always find a way to reuse boards or smaller cuts.
Foldable Craft Table made from Scrap Wood
I made this foldable craft table from scrap wood only, all I spent on this project was $5.00 for the hinges. Everything else I had already, or received for free.
This project is considered advanced, but I am pretty sure that even a beginner will pull this of by using my FREE Plans (which are included – at the bottom).
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 29″ table legs
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 9 3/4″ x 3/4″ support boards for front and back
- 6 – 1 1/2″ x 23 1/2″ x 3/4″ support boards for the sides
- 2 – 26 1/2″ x 26 1/2″ x 1/2″ table top plywood boards (substitute with 3/4″ if that's what you have)
- 1 – 13 1/4″ x 26 1/2″ x 1/2″ Table top center board (substitute with 3/4″ if that's what you have)
- 2 – 2″ x 29″ x 3/4″
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 26 1/2″ x 3/4″
- 4 – 1 1/2″ x 19 7/8″ x 3/4″
- 8 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ x 8″
- 2 – 24 3/4″ x 9 3/4″ x 1/2″
Hardware and Tools
- 4 – 3-4″ door hinges
- 4 – 1″ door hinges
- 4 – 1″ corner hinges or L-shaped hinges
- 1 1/2″ screws
- screwdriver (electric and manual)
- Kreg Jig
- Edging Tape | Household Iron to apply
- Paint, stain or sealer (optional)
- 4 Casters (optional)
- 2 Door stopper (optional)
- Miter saw
- Table saw or circular saw
- Sandpaper and sander
Drill pocket holes into each of the support boards (2 on each side is recommended). Screw them into place with 1 1/2″ screws.
Once all 4 x 9 3/4″ boards are screwed in place, attach the side boards.
To build the side frame, use the frame boards listed above. Drill pocket holes into the center boards only 1 1/2″ x 19 7/8″ x 3/4″. Screw the top center board 1/4″ lower, this space is needed for the hinge overhang – this way you can still open the frame.
Put together the second frame and attach them with hinges to the top and bottom along the outside of the base (see below).
Attach the table top, flip the table top boards onto the topside, so the underside is showing. Place the door hinges at least 4″ away from the edges – with the hinge center pointing to the contacting point of both the boards.
Secure the hinges to the table underside, 1. make sure the screws are not to long (or they will poke through), 2. the boards are flush against each other, 3. use a screwdriver to secure the hinges (the screws are so small that too much power can over rotate and break the screw head).
Once the door hinges are attached to all table top boards, secure the table top trio to the base. Lay the table top onto the base and draw an outline where the support board ends (see image below). Use “L” shaped hinges or corner brace brackets (the hinges I used are from a local hardware store), but you can also use these.
Screw the hinges to the support board, and the table is ready to be stained, painted or sealed.
To make the table accessible, attach leg casters to the bottom of the table base and to the support frame(s) left and right. Use these Slipstick floor protectors or Soft Rubber Swivel Plate Caster and these for the side frame > Kick Down Doorstop.
Making the shelving is easier than it looks, all you need to do is cut some 3/4″ thick strips of wood, pre-drill one home on each end and secure them inside of the support board – 1/2″ below the top of board (see image below).
Screw one strip on each side, and you can lay the board on top.
This method will give you the great “no edge” look – perfect for sliding things in and out!
I used Birch wood edging tape to hide all the ugly edges from the table top (if you can't find the 1/2″ tape, you can cut the tape to fit your needs).
Hope you made it through the entire post (sorry this was such a long post), if you did THANK YOU for reading through the tutorial. I would be very grateful if you would also share this tutorial on Pinterest or Facebook.
Like to see more:
More ways to build your own space-saving table and storage:
add a storage platform and wheels to a dining table for a rolling workspace
build a folding portable table — a great workstation!